COURSE  or  STUbY 

in 

MANUAL  ARTS 

ELEMENTARY 


JtATTLl  FQBLK  SCHOOLS 


Tentative  Course  of  Study 

in 
MANUAL    ARTS 

ELEMENTARY 


Seattle    Public    Schools 

1911 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 

General  Suggestions 3-4 

First  Grade 5-19 

Second  Grade 20-28 

Third  Grade 2941 

Fourth  Grade 42-58 

Fifth  Grade  .  59-74 


MANUAL     ARTS 

ELEMENTARY 
GENERAL  SUGGESTIONS. 

GRADES  1.  TO  V.  INCLUSIVE. 

TIME  REQUIRED. 

The  time  required  for  manual  arts  is  one  hour  per 
week.  This  time,  however,  should  be  divided  in  the  first 
and  second  grades  and  two  lessons  of  thirty  minutes  given 
each  week.  In  all  buildings  having  more  than  one  room 
of  the  same  grade,  time  adjustment  will  be  necessary 
so  as  not  to  conflict  in  the  joint  use  of  the  equipment. 

The  work  outlined  should  begin  the  second  week  of 
September. 

ARTICLES  SAVED  FOR  EXHIBIT. 

Each  teacher  will  save  at  least  one  of  every  article 
completed  by  the  class,  for  general  exhibit,  and  two  for 
room  exhibit.  These  pieces  saved  for  general  exhibit 
should  be  carefully  kept  free  from  dust  until  called  for  at 
the  end  of  term.  Each  teacher  is  urged  to  provide  some 
space  in  her  room  for  the  room  exhibit.  One  and  one-half 
yards  of  natural  or  neutral  colored  burlap  makes  a  good 
background  for  this  purpose. 

MIXED  GRADES. 

In  case  of  mixed  grades,  take  the  work  assigned  to 
the  higher  grade.  If  necessary,  give  one  or  two  lessons  to 
the  lower  grade  alone,  to  bring  them  where  they  may 
understand  the  work.  Both  mixed  and  straight  grades 
continue  the  grade  of  handwork  begun  in  September, 
throughout  the  year,  unless  special  arrangements  are  made 
with  the  supervisors. 

3 


UNFINISHED  WORK 

Unfinished  work  should  be  neatly  labeled  and  care- 
fully kept  in  boxes,  folios  or  bags,  one  for  each  pupil  or 
row. 

GRADING  OF  WORK 

The  grading  of  work  should  be  based  on  both  effort 
and  the  finished  product.  Do  not  deny  the  privilege  of  the 
handwork  because  of  misdemeanors  in  other  classes. 

ILLUSTRATION 

The  teacher  will  gain  both  time  and  good  results  if 
she  has  a  finished  article  to  show  the  class  before  present- 
ing any  new  lesson.  In  most  cases  the  demonstration 
may  be  greatly  helped  by  diagrams  on  the  board.  Large 
blue  print  plates  are  furnished  for  the  use  of  both  teacher 
and  pupil. 

REFERENCES 

Clay  Work  (1,  2,  3,)  ;  1  for  each  building. 
Gilman  &  Wm's  Seat  W^ork  and  Industrial  Occupa- 
tion (1,  2),  1  for  each  building. 

Holton  &  Rollins1  Indust,  Work    (1,2),  1    for    each 

building. 
Prang's  Art  Education,  Books  1-7  (all  grades)  ;  1  set 

for  each  building. 

Sage  &  Cooley's  Oc.  Little  Fing.  (1,  2,  3),  1  for  each 

building. 
F.  H.  Daniels,  School  Drawing,    (1,  2)  ;  1  for  each 

building. 
Trybom  &  Heller's  Correlated  Hand  Work   (1,  2,  3), 

1  for  each  building. 
Applied  Arts  Drawing  Books  (all  grades)  ;  1  set  for 

each  building. 

Autumn  and  Winter. 

W7inter  and  Spring. 
Manual  Arts  for  Elem.  Grades  (all  grades)  ;  1  set  for 

each  building.     1  set,  9  books. 

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Outlining-  flowers  and  leaves 
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Illustrations  of  work  in  oth- 
er subjects  and  of  the  sea- 
sons. 
Cutting  from  poses  animals 
in  action,  game,  story, 
pong. 

The  furnishing  of  a  doll 
house. 
(A)  House  made  by  boys  in 
shop. 
(B)  .  Furniture  —  Order  of 
making  determined  by  the 
simplicity  (at  first,  later 
by  decision  of  children  as 
to  the  relative  necessity  of 
different  pieces. 
(C)  Floor  coverings,  rugs, 
matting,  linoleum  and 
woven  paper  mats. 
(D)  Walls  —  Paper  designed 
in  the  drawing  period. 

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FIRST  GRADE. 
EQUIPMENT  AND  SUPPLIES. 

Material                                            Size  Amount  per 

Epuipment  Room 

Blue  print  plates 2'x3"  1  set 

Scissors  4"  48 

Supplies 

Tinted  folding  paper 8"x8"  1500  sh. 

Tinted  folding  paper 9"xl2"          ....    500  sh. 

Tinted  strips   3/4"  1  pkg. 

Print  paper,  white  (of  r  cutting)    6"x9"  3000  sh. 

Assorted  cover  paper  (50  Ibs. )  _   9"xl2"  1000 

Assorted  cover  paper  ( 50  Ibs. )  _  8"x8"  1500 

Assorted  cover  paper  ( 50  Ibs. )  _  4"x8"  50 

Assorted  cover  paper  (50  Ibs.)-   I"x20"  100 

Assorted  cover  paper  (50  Ibs. )  _  4"xlG"  50 

Black  cutting  paper ___10"xl2y2"  500  sh. 

Black  mounting  board  .       20"x30"  10  sh. 

Glay   20  Ib. 

Splints  (assorted  colors  10") (500  per  pkg.)      1  pkg. 

CLAY  MODELING. 

TIME.  The  clay  work  should  be  given  once  a  week 
during  October  and  November  and  discontinued  as  a  reg- 
uler  period  after  that  date  until  the  spring  term.  As  a 
rule,  a  30  minute  period  is  sufficient  for  a  clay  lesson  in 
this  grade. 

MATERIALS.  .  Clay  in  bricks  prepared  by  the  jani- 
tor, drawing  paper  9x12  or  stout  wrapping  paper  for  desk 
covers,  one  small  wooden  tool  for  each  child. 

PREPARATION  OF  CLAY  BY  JANITOR.  The 
janitor  receives  the  clay  in  bags  as  a  dust.  He  has  been 
given  all  directions  for  preparing  it  for  teacher's  use.  It 
is  put  into  a  stone  jar  and  mixed  with  water  until  it  has 
the  consistency  of  putty.  It  is  then  molded  into  bricks 
about  4"  by  10"  or  larger,  as  called  for  by  teacher.  From 
three  to  four  bricks  are  sufficient  for  a  lesson. 

The  clay  will  be:  brought  or  sent  to  the  teacher  by  the 
janitor. 


PREPARATION  FOR  CLAY  BY  TEACHER.  The 

teacher  should  make  her  request  for  clay  the  night  before 
it  is  needed,  so  that  the  janitor  may  have  sufficient  time 
to  order  his  work  accordingly.  The  bricks  may  be  cut 
into  pieces  for  distribution  by  means  of  string  or  wire.  As 
a  rule,  a  piece  2"x4"x4"  will  be  enough  for  each  pupil. 

2  sheets  of  brown  drawing  paper  9"  by  12",  or  larger 
sheets  of  stout  wrapping  paper  should  be  used  for  the 
desks  and  the  clay  kept  on  this  paper  throughout  the 
lesson.  The  same  sheets  may  be  used  several  times  and 
then  destroyed  and  new  ones  substituted. 

CARE  OF  CLAY  AFTER  LESSON.  When  the  les- 
son is  over  children  clean  of  their  hands  over  paper  and 
gather  all  the  bits  of  clay  into  one  lump.  The  best  three 
pieces  should  be  selected  and  the  monitors  collect  the  rest, 
putting  all  together  on  the  board  for  the  janitor. 

If  any  child  is  known  to  have  sore  hands  or  any  other 
indication  of  unhygienic  conditions,  his  clay  should  not 
be  put  back  into  the  jar  for  further  use,  but  should  be 
thrown  into  the  waste  basket  at  the  close  of  the  lesson.  The 
janitor  will  then  put  the  remainder  of  the  clay  back  into 
the  jar  and  cover.  The  selected  pieces  may  be  kept  out  for 
a  few  days  and  then,  if  there  is  no  cupboard  shelf  to  keep 
them  on,  they  should  be  placed  i  na  box  where  they  will  be 
free  from  dust  and  injury. 

OUTLINE.  A  preparatory  lesson  may  be  needed  in 
getting  used  to  the  material.  For  example  have  the  chil- 
dren model  a  ball  and  then  form  anything  they  choose. 
Teach  them  to  use  the  tips  of  their  fingers,  not  the  palm  of 
the  hand. 

GROUP  I.    Model  fruits  or  vegetables  in  the  round. 

GROUP  II.  Outline  and  model  leaves  and  simple 
flowers  and  animals  on  a  tile. 

GROUP  III.  Model  in  illustration  of  stories  of  birds, 
animals  and  children  in  the  round  and  on  a  tile. 

The  fall  work  will  probably  cover  Group  I.  and  some- 
what of  Group  II.  The  spring  work  should  continue  Group 
II.  and  finish  with  Group  III. 

7 


METHOD. 

In  the  first  Group,  the  main  point  is  to  insist  on  the 
use  of  the  tips  of  the  fingers  in  modeling.  Before  the 
modeling  begins  study  the  form  of  the  object  selected  in 
as  many  different  ways  as  possible  from  the  real  thing, 
from  one  or  more  large  blackboard  drawings  showing  dif- 
ferent positions  if  necessary  and  from  a  finished  clay- 
modeling. 

For  the  fall  work  in  the  second  group,  the  tiles,  which 
should  never  be  less  than  y2"  in  thickness,  may  be  cut 
from  the  large  brick  and  smoothed  into  shape  with  the 
tips  of  the  fingers.  In  this  case  be  sure  that  the  bricks 
are  made  in  the  correct  proportion  to  fit  the  leaf  or  flower 
or  animal  form  to  be  modeled  upon  it.  In  the  spring  if 
the  children  are  capable  they  may  form  their  own  tile  as 
follows : 

Give  children  drawing  paper  on  which  the  square  or 
rectangle  is  drawn  the  size  needed.  Take  small  piece  of 
clay  and  roll  into  coil  about  y2"  thick.  Outline  the  rec- 
tangle, press  well  together  where  pieces  of  coil  join.  Fill 
in  the  inside  space  with  small  pieces  of  clay  working  all 
together.  After  it  is  built  to  the  right  thickness,  it  should 
be  well  smoothed,  turned  over,  cracks  filled  in  if  necessary 
and  the  clay  well  wedged  together  (see  Clay  Work  p.  22). 
The  form  to  be  built  may  be  sketched  on  tile  with  the 
pointed  tool.  A  small  coil,  about  the  size  of  a  slate  pencil 
is  then  made  and  the  form  is  then  filled  with  bits  of  clay 
firmly  worked  together  and  the  form  may  be  modeled 
to  the  desired  high  or  low  relief.  In  all  tile  work  em- 
phasize the  placing  and  the  proportionate  size  of  the 
form,  making  it  fill  the  space  well,  rather  than  crowding 
it  in  the  center  or  one  corner. 

(Clay  Work— pages  26,  28,  30). 

For  Group  III.,  read  Chap.  VI.,  "Clay  Work." 


FREEHAND  PAPER  CUTTING. 
(Plates  III.,  IV.  and  V.;  also  Grade  II.,  Plate  I.) 

FREEHAND  PAPER  CUTTING  should  be  made  an 
expression  of  Nature  Study,  Literature,  and  History  stor- 
ies and  poems  and  of  the  special  seasons.  At  the  same 
time  it  should  include  some  definite  study  of  masses. 

TIME.  Eegular  lessons  should  be  given  during  Sep- 
tember and  October  and  whenever  possible  throughout  the 
year. 

MATERIALS.  White  cutting  paper  6x9,  black  cut- 
ting paper  9x12  and  scissors. 

SELECTION  OF  SUBJECTS.  In  selecting  draw- 
ings or  pictures  to  use  as  a  basis  for  a  silhouette  or  cutting, 
care  must  be  taken  in  choosing  a  position  whose  outline 
alone  will  show  the  characteristics  of  the  objects.  Cut* 
tings  may  also  be  made  from  the  pose.  The  cutting  of 
letters  is  also  recommended.  Select  the  simplest  style. 
Give  definite  height  to  the  letters,  by  furnishing  the  chil- 
dren with  strips  of  paper  the  proper  width  or  by  having 
them  fold  to  the  required  width. 

SIZE.  Have  the  children  cut  as  large  as  paper  given 
them  will  allow,  sometimes  saving  the  outer  part,  to  show 
how  little  was  wasted  and  how,  if  placed  against  a  con- 
trasting color,  it  forms  a  second  silhouette. 

EXHIBIT.  A  day's  work  rn&j  be  pinned  on  the  bur- 
lap screen  for  a  day  and  then  the  best  selected  to  be  past- 
ed on  the  large  card  board  mounts  30x20  or  on  smaller 
cards  cut  from  the  large  mounts.  The  full  size  cards  or 
burlap  screen  may  be  used  to  show  one  connected  thought 
or  story  of  the  month  or  the  best  different  cuttings.  When 
a  number  of  cards  are  put  up  in  the  room,  it  is  best  to 
kerp  them  away  from  the  framed  picture  spaces  or  at 
least  not  to  cut  into  such  spaces  more  than  to  form  a  bor- 
der above  the  black  board.  Many  teachers  have  found  con- 
venient places  for  them  below  windows  or  in  corner  spaces. 
Not  more  than  a  month's  work  need  be  exhibited  at  one 
time,  however,  unless  desired. 

9 


SUGGESTED  PLAN  FOR  POSE  CUTTING: 

1.  Looking  carefully  at  the  pose  following  the  outline 
with  the  finger. 

2.  Imagine  the  figure  on  the  paper  placing  in  thought 
the  head,  the  line  of  motion,  the  feet. 

3.  Cut  the  figure. 

4.  If  troubled  with  some  particular  point  in  the  ac- 
tion, cut  the  part  alone. 

5.  Cut  feet  in  different  positions — men's  shoes  make 
good  models. 

SUGGESTED  METHOD  FOR  A  CLASS  LESSON. 

After  the  subject  for  a  lesson  is  decided  upon — it  may  be 
illustrative  of  a  story  as  the  "Pig  Brother/'  or  as  an  ac- 
companiment of  a  nature  lesson  on  an  animal,  flower,  or 
vegetable,  as  the  bear,  the  tulip  or  the  carrot — the  more 
ways  the  child  can  see  the  form,  the  better  is  he  able  to 
reproduce  it.  Therefore — make  a  big  mass  drawing  on 
the  board;  have  a  completed  mounted  cutting;  also  the 
"left  over  cut-out,"  showing  what  was  left  of  the  sheet 
of  paper,  and  how  it  was  cut  to  advantage,  getting  the 
largest  form  possible  from  the  paper  provided.  Then  cut 
one  before  the  children,  if  possible  freehand ;  if  not,  from 
a  very  lightly  traced  pencil  outline,  thus  showing  them 
where  to  begin  and  how  to  proceed.  Help  them  to  see 
the  form  or  whatever  the  subject  may  be  in  the  sheet 
of  paper  as  the  sculptor  sees  his  completed  figure  in  the 
block  of  marble.  Sometimes,  as  in  the  case  of  a  story, 
it  may  be  dramatized  and  the  cuttings  made  from 
children  posing. 

SUGGESTED  METHOD  FOR  SEAT  WORK.  For 
this  there  may  not  be  time  to  cut  before  the  children,  but 
the  large  mass  drawing  may  be  on  the  board  and  one  or 
more  large  size  cuttings  before  them.  Where  memory  or 
imaginative  cuttings  are  wanted  in  illustration  of  stories 
or  reproduction  of  forms  previously  studied,  then  the  chil- 
dren may  work  without  models  of  any  sort.  Even  then, 
however,  they  should  be  cautioned  to  think  out  the  forms 
they  wish  to  cut,  to  see  them  in  the  paper  first. 

10 


SUGGESTIVE    CUTTINGS    FOR    THE    DIFFER- 
ENT MONTHS.    September  and  October :    Simple  leaves, 
trees,  fruit,  seed  cradles,  vegetables  and  animals  and  illus- . 
trations  of  stories. 

November  and  December : 
Story  of  the  Pilgrims. 
Story  of  the  Pumpkin. 
The  Turkey,  Duck,  Goose,  and  Rabbit. 
Ancient  Shepherd  Life — Tents,  Shepherd,  Sheep. 
Camels,  The  Wise  Men,  The  Star. 
Christmas  Tree,  Toys,  A  Full  Stocking. 
Reindeer,  Santa  and  His  Sleigh. 
Holly  Leaves.  / 

Christmas  in  Other  Lands. 
Illustration  of  Christmas  Stories. 
The  Fir  Tree — McMurry. 
Story  of  Christmas — Hofer. 
The  Shepher — Three  years  with  the  Poets. 
Piccola — Three  Years  with  the  Poets. . 
Visit  from  St.  Nicholas — Songs  of  Treetop 

and  Meadow. 
The  Bird's  Christmas— In  the  Child's  World. 

January  and  February: 

The  Eskimo  and  His  Country. 
Snowballing,  Snowman,  Snow  Stars. 
Sliding  Down  Hill,  Skating. 
Illustration  of  Stories  and  Songs. 

March  and  April : 

Pose  from  life,  showing  action. 
Spring  flowers. 
Hen  and  chickens. 
Development  of  the  Frog. 

Birds — woodpecker,  robin,  wren,  gull,  humming 
bird,  crow  and  bluebird. 

May  and  June : 

Butterflies. 

Games — Rolling  hoop,  jumping  rope,   swinging, 

baseball,  football. 
Children  of  other  Countries. 

11 


DOLL  HOUSE  FURNITURE. 
(Plate  I.) 

TIME.  Tliis  furnishing  of  the  Doll  house  will  be 
continued  throughout  the  year  after  the  fall  clay  model- 
ing and  may  be  laid  aside  for  such  supplementary  folding 
and  paper  weaving  as  may  be  selected  for  special  days, 
such  as  Christmas  and  Thanksgiving. 

BASIS.  The  Doll  House  furniture  will  be  based 
largely  on  the  folding,  cutting  and  pasting  of  8"  squares 
of  paper. 

HOW  TO  OBTAIN  A  DOLL  HOUSE.  Any  first 
grade  not  having  a  suitable  house  should  at  once  make 
request  for  one.  If  there  are  7th  and  8th  grade  classes  in 
the  building  the  children  of  the  first  grade,  through  a  letter 
or  committee  should  ask  the  boys  to  make  them  a  doll 
house,  giving  them  its  size,  shape,  number  of  rooms,  and 
the  color  of  stain  or  paint  preferred. 

The  thought  in  suggesting  this  method,  is  one  of  co- 
operation on  the  part  of  the  children  themselves,  guided 
by  the  teachers  and  principal. 

Opportunity  will  be  given  in  the  manual  training 
center  for  a  class  or  group  of  boys  in  a  class  to  carry  out 
their  plan  brought  from  their  own  school.  Two  cracker, 
or  similar,  boxes  from  the  corner  grocery  will  supply  all 
the  material  needed.  These  the  boys  themselves  can  get. 
Plates  showing  ways  of  varying  this  house  will  be  sent  to 
both  first  grade  teachers  and  shop  teachers  on  request. 
(Plate  II.) 

Where  there  are  no  7th  or  8th  grade  classes  going  to 
shop,  the  request  might  be  made  of  any  higher  grade  boys 
or  of  the  janitor. 

Where  there  is  doll  house  from  last  year,  have 
it  thoroughly  cleaned  and  the  old  furniture  removed. 

The  teacher  will  consider  with  the  children,  the  num- 
ber of  rooms  and  whether  all  on  one  floor  or  two.  The 
average  measurement  of  the  rooms  should  be  about  11" 
x!5"  on  the  floor  and.  11"  high.  The  floor  space  may  vary, 

12 


however,  depending  upon  the  size  and  number  of  boxes 
supplied. 

STAINING  OK  PAINTING.  The  floor  and  outside 
will  be  stained  or  painted  by  the  boys. 

PLANS.  Dictation  at  first.  Later  original  working 
out  of  suggestions  made  by  children. 

AIMS.  To  suggest  the  possibilities  of  materials  to 
which  they  all  have  access — wooden  boxes  and  paper.  To 
bring  to  the  child's  mind  the  necessity  of  each  piece  of 
furniture  and  the  qualities  which  make  it  meet  that  ne- 
cessity— simplicity,  beauty,  adaptation  to  service,  and  the 
possibility  of  its  being  kept  clean  and  in  good  or- 
der. -48 1 

The  house  can  be  made  a  thing  of  vital  interest  in. 
the  study  of  the  child's  own  home  life  as  compared  to  that 
of  the  Eskimo  or  of  children  of  other  lands. 

Have  the  pieces  for  the  house  made  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble after  the  lesson  on  a  particular  piece  is  given  to  the 
class. 

It  would  be  an  excellent  plan  to  encourage  the  chil- 
dren to  make  or  have  made  a  house  at  home. 

The  care  of  the  house  should  be  put  into  the 
hands  of  the  children,  one  or  more  monitors  for 
each  week,  whose  business  it  shall  be  to  keep  the  housi; 
neat  and  in  order.  A  tiny  old-fashioned  broom  may  be 
made  of  raffia  and  a  small  piece  of  cheesecloth  kept  espec- 
ially for  dusting  the  furniture. 

MATERIALS.  Paste,  Tinted  folding  paper  (S"x8"), 
and  Cover  Paper  (8"x8")  in  assorted  colors.  Use  I  he  thin 
paper  for  practice  and  the  cover  paper  when  a  fair  degree 
of  skill  has  been  attained.  Note  that  enough  cover  paper 
is  furnished  this  year  that  each  child  may  take  home  one 
piece  of  each  kind  of  furniture,  made  up  in  the  substantial 
cover  paper.  This  gives  him  a  chance  to  furnish  a  house 
at  home  if  he  chooses. 

SCISSORS.  Secure  a  wooden  box  to  hold  set  (48). 
In  case  the  set  is  being  used  by  more  than  one  room, 
each  teacher  should  see  that  the  set  is  complete  before  it 
is  passed  to  the  next  teacher. 

13 


PASTE.  Have  a  good  orderly  way  of  distributing 
paste  and  let  it  take  as  short  a  time  as  possible.  One  way 
is  to  give  out  paste  on  small  squares  of  waste  paper,  to- 
gether with  flat  sticks  for  laying  it  on.  It  is  best  to  dis- 
courage using  the  fingers  especially  when  pasting  colored 
paper.  Where  there  are  enough  small  bottles  in  the  build- 
ing each  child  may  have  his  own  and  the  bottles  be  refilled 
when  necessary.  Keep  the  paste  in  good  condition  by  add- 
ing a  drop  or  two  of  water  occasionally  and  creaming  well 
by  stirring. 

FURNITURE  SUGGESTED  AND  ILLUSTRATED 
IN  PLATE  I.  Kitchen  stove,  table  and  chair;  dining 
room  table,  chair  and  sideboard;  small  table,  bed,  dresser 
and  cradle  for  bedroom  and  for  the  living  room,  a  Daven- 
port with  suitable  chairs  and  table. 

PROPORTION.  In  making  up  the  pieces  for  the 
house,  modify  if  necessary  to  make  them  well  proportioned 
to  the  size  of  the  house. 

OTHER  APPLICATIONS  of  the  paper  folding  may 
"b«  carried  into  the  making  of  houses  with  different  roofs 
of  whole  streets,  of  houses  of  different  nations  of  different 
ways  of  transportation  and  of  farm  and  city  scenes.  There 
last  \vould  come  within  the  grasp  of  the  high  first  grade, 
but  would  be  difficult  for  the  beginners.  Other  suggest- 
ions will  be  found  in  "Seat  Work  and  Industrial  Occu- 
pations,'1 Gilman  and  Williams  and  in  "School  Drawing" 
by  Daniels.  ( See  also  Supplementary  Hectograph  Plates. ) 

NEW  CONSTRUCTIVE  LESSONS.  The  following 
suggestions  have  been  found  helpful  in  giving  new  con- 
structions : 

1.  A  representation  on  the  blackboard  of  the  sheet 
given  to  the  children. 

2.  A  finished  model. 

3.  A  model  ready  for  pasting. 

After  studying  2  and  3,  the  children  tell  the  teacher 
where  to  draw  cutting  lines  on  the  blackboard  and  imitate 
on  their  own.  As  the  children  cut,  the  teacher  erases  from 
the  b.  b.  to  show  the  parts  cut  away. 

14 


Lead  the  child  to  criticise  his  own  work.  Give  him 
fine  seeds  to  put  in  his  seed  box  and  prove  it  is  a  good  one, 
or  if  they  sift  out,  that  it  is  not  well  done. 


15 


WEAVING. 

TIME.  Practice  weaving  may  begin  at  any  time  with 
the  colored  splinte  and  mats  of  oilcloth  or  window  shade 
canvas.  (These  mats  are -not  furnished  but  those  teachers 
who  are  without  them  can  easily  obtain  a  quantity  of 
scrap  pieces  of  window  shades  from  any  department 
store. ) 

HISTORY.  Tell  the  children  something  of  the  be- 
ginnings of  weaving.  (See  Occupations  for  Little  Fin- 
gers?  p.  67. )  Bring  out  the  present  value  of  weaving. 

SUGGESTIONS  FOR  METHOD: 

1.  Develop  process  by  using    splints,  white  or 

colored. 

2.  Fold  tinted  folding  paper  8"x8"  and  cut  to 
form  warp  and  filling.     Use  harmonious  col- 
ors. Weave  simply  over  and  under  one,  form- 
1"  squares. 

3.  Fold  tinted  folding  paper  8"x8"  or  9"xl2"  and 
vary   design   by  2"   warp   and   1"   filling  or 
weft. 

4.  Using  cover  paper    8"x8"    and  9"xl2",  have 
children  make  their  own  mat  by  folding  or 
by  measurement  with  the  ruler.     Place  be- 
fore them  finished  mats  of  different  designs, 
also  mass  drawings  of  the  same.    These  mats 
may  be  made  up  in  various  ways  for  Christ- 
mas gifts  such  as  sachet,  cornucopias,  book- 
let cover  or  lantern.      (In  making  lanterns, 
whether  of  cover  or  drawing  paper,  always 
paste  paper  stays  inside  to  keep  the  shape.) 


16 


STORY  TELLING  IN  TABLEAU,  CLAY  AND  PAPER  CUT- 
TING. 

Several  stories  which  seem  especially  suited  for  this 
work  are  given  below.  (Selected  from  an  article  in  the 
School  Arts  Book— 1907. ) 

RED  RIDING  HOOD : 

Scene  I. — Wolf  and  Red  Riding  Hood  meet  in  the 
woods. 

Scene  II. — Red  Riding  Hood  in  the  woods.  Wolf  en- 
tering house. 

Scene  III. — The  wolf  in  bed  and  Red  Riding  Hood 
talking  to  him. 

RAGGYLUG:  ^ 

Scene  I. — The  rabbit  in  swamp  among  tall  grassy 
trees  in  background.  Snake  crawling  toward 
him. 

Scene  II. — Snake  with  Raggylug's  ear,  and  his  mother 
running  to  his  rescue. 

Scene  III. — Mother  tramping  on  snake,  Raggylug  run- 
ning away. 

THE  OX  AND  THE  DONKEY : 

Scene  I. — The  donkey    and   ox    out   walking   in    the 

woods. 
Scene  II. — Inside  the  palace  of  king.     The  ox  and 

donkey  before  the  lion  on  his  throne. 

THE  UGLY  DUCKLING: 

Scene  I. — The  mother  on  her  nest,  little  ducks  around. 

Scene  II. — 111  treatment  in  the  barn  yard. 

Scene  III. — The  ugly  duckling  with  the  wild  ducks 

among  tall  swamp  grass. 
Scene  IV. — The  peasant's  poor  hut,  old  woman,  cat 

and  hen. 
Scene  V. — The  ugly  duckling  swims  toward  the  swans 

in  a  beautiful  garden  and  children    on    the 

17 


bank  cry,  "The  new  one  is  the  most  beautiful 
of  all."   Flowers,  trees. 

THE  FOX  AND  THE  STORK: 

Scene  I. — "The  wee  birdies  were    hopping    on    the 

grass  when  Mr.  Heron  passed,  stepping  so 

high  and  grand." 
Scene  II. — Mr.  Fox  and  Mr.  Heron  at  dinner.     "The 

soup  was  in  a  round,  shallow  china  plate." 

(Model  plate  in  clay.) 
Scene  III. — Mr.  Fox  visiting  Mr.  Heron.     Soup  in  a 

tall,  slender  jar. 

THKEE  PIGS : 

Scene  I. — One  pig  meets  a  man  with  straw. 

Scene  II. — One  pig  meets  a  man  with  sticks. 

Scene  III. — One  pig  meets  a  man  with  bricks. 

Scene  IV. — Straw  house  and  wolf. 

Scene  V. — Straw  house  blown  down  and  wolf. 

Scene  VI. — Stick  house  and  wolf. 

Scene  VII. — Stick  house  blown  down  and  wolf. 

Scene  VIII. — Imitation  brick  house.     Pig  with  head 

out  window  talking  to  wolf. 

Scene  IX. — Pig  up  in  an  apple  tree,  wolf  underneath. 
Scene  X. — The  frightened  wolf  and  the  churn  with  pig 

inside. 
Scene  IX. — Inside  the  house.     The  pig  is  sitting  at 

table  eating  the  wolf. 

SUGGESTIONS  FOR  SPECIAL  DAYS  AND  SEASONS. 

HARVEST  TIME.  Make  boxes  or  envelopes  for  the 
seed  collection.  (Boxes  may  also  be  made  to  hold  seat 
work — make  books  of  cuttings  on  one  subject,  as  a  "Leaf 
Book"  or  a  "Fruit  Book.") 

HALLOWE'EN  suggests  the  cutting  of  pumpkin 
faces  in  black  with  yellow  paper  pasted  on  the  back.  They 
may  then  be  mounted  for  the  cover  of  a  booklet,  one  large 
one  or  several  on  the  top  of  poles  of  different  length.  Free- 

18 


«ET 

hand  cuttings  of  BroWntes 


THANKSGIVING. 


*      a.  a     .    -  . 

( go0d  "ones )  may  alsoj  fee  m* 


and  used  to  illustral&l  r|a|ding"  lessons.     The  S%)iw  of  ;he 
Pumpkin  Pie  would  Ma%cod  onid  for  a  bookleUif  Oi 

*  fe>  "  o  ,_  3 


Make ''Church,  hoifeeSind 

*»•  »-  SB    Z.  O 


de 


n,er- 


(Plate  Supplementary  L,  CjrradelQ,.  A  chimney^  inlay 
ded  to  the  house  and  the  church  steeple  niodifie1!  in; 
ent  ways..;  A  number  of  the  houses?  (njiark  the  Jogs  #n  $hjein 
with  paint,  pencil  or  charcoal.)  maj  be  selecf^  fto  sform 
the  first  lettletiient  of  the  |  Pilgrims.  A  large  ffa£  topped 
house  nia^bbe  fplded  for^the  S*oc|ad<;.  Th^  Tlanfogwing 
table  can  Be  represente&iby  eitfttf  cuttings  ofx4ay  n*del- 

;„„  •     "-1  "  °^-,    I  offSiffT-i    ,3    , 

ing-      ii?  rj 


CHRISTMAS.  Make  !  tree  an|  fireplace^  (  Plate 
I.,  Grade-!).  Other  foldings  are^  candlestick^ 
sleigh,  lantern  for  tree!,  calendars,  five  pointed  [  star  an$l 
book  marks.  A  very  pretty  book  mark  is  made:  as  follows*: 
Decide  6n  the  shape.  Select  two  harmonious  to'fies,  of  paper, 
as  tan  aaiidt  brown,  and1  cut  the;  sliape  from  eacli  oolor. 
Fold  aiicLjCtit  out  a  design  in  th^.tan  paper,  iff  the  J^ame 
manner:  iii  [which  snow^stars  are^niade.  du^?,^he;  s|hape 
down  aboui  %"  less  than  the  btpVn  and  paste1  »over  the 
hrownr-  A^iiole  may  be/  punched"  ju  the  uppef  end  and  a 
cord  and^ta^sel  tied  thtpngh.  (Plate  Sup.  3,  Grade  I). 

VALENTINES.  Drawing  paper  folded  in  different 
heart  shaped  booklet-forms  with  'openings  at'sidej  top  or 
middle.  Single  weavingiof  heart  shape  in  two'  Contrasting 
colors,  i  :  (See  Plate  Siip.'"S.  Grade  t) 

PA9MUOTIC  DA^S/  Fold  a^tent  and  psfete  tjhe  flag. 
Badges  :qut  in  different"  shapes,  u^ing  the  postage  stamp 
heads  of  Washington  for  ^decoration.  A  soldifep  cap. 

EASIER.  Egg  snaked  booKltets.  Use  cfifckens,  rab- 
.bits  and  butterfly  cutting's  to  Jgastejn  .  Jborders  for_la.rger 
booklets.  Fold  a  chicken  coop  and  cut  out  hen  and  chick- 
ens. FoM  box  with  sFats  and  cut  rabbit  and  Uittle 
ones. 

MAY  BASKETS.  (Plate  2.  Grade  I.,  Supplement- 
ary.) Several  baskets  are  suggested  on  this  plate.  (A)  is 
like  the  woven  \alentine  except  that  it  has  a  pocket  and  so 
requires  double  weaving.  (C)  is  the  least  difficult  one. 

19 


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12 


SECOND  GRADE. 

EQUIPMENT  AND  SUPPLIES. 

Material                                         Size  Amount 
Equipment 

Scissors   4"                                   48 

Rug  Needles 4"                  1  per  pupil 

Todd  Looms 1  per  pupil 

Yarn  Darners 1  per  pupil 

Knitting  needles No.  16,  100  per  room 

Supplies 

Pasteboard  loom  (for  holder)  _  6^wx6%"                   50 
Print    Paper,    white,    (for  cut- 
ting      6"x9"                 3000  sh. 

Tinted  Folding  Paper 8"x8"                    500  sh. 

Tinted  Strips %"                            1  pkg. 

Black  Mounting  Board 20"x30"                    10  sh. 

Cover  Paper 41/^"xl41/4             50  sb« 

Cover  Paper ^"xl^"              100  sh. 

Tablet  paper  (for  books) 8y2"xl3%"        1500  sh. 

Raffia,  uncolored 2  Ibs. 

Raffia,  colored 1  Ib. 

Clay   20  Ibs. 

Crochet  cotton 1  spool 

Cotton  Warp  3  spools. 

Rug  Yarn  Assorted 12 

Germantown  Wool 3  Ibs. 

Tablet  Paper  (for  word  study 

books)    4"xl3y2"                 500  sh. 

Kraft  Paper   (for  book  of  cut- 
tings or  extras) 8y2"xl3%"          500  sh. 


21 


CLAY  MODELING. 

( See  First  Grade  Outline. ) 

FREEHAND  PAPER  CUTTING. 

OUTLINE.  See  First  Grade  outline  also  Plates  III., 
IV.,  and  V. 

TIME.  In  this  grade  the  paper  cutting  should  be  giv- 
en throughout  the  year  and  may  be  more  freely  used  as  seat 
work  than  in  the  first  grade.  During  the  months  of  Sep- 
tember and  October,  give  several  regular  class  lessons, 
alternating  with  the  clay  modeling  to  establish  a  standard 
and  method  of  working.  For  seat  work  the  lesson  in  this 
grade  might  well  include  the  placing  and  pasting  of  the 
cutting  on  a  sheet  of  paper  or  in  a  book  such  as  is  describ- 
ed under  "Booklet  Making." 

METHODS.     See  First  Grade  Outline. 

BOOKLETS. 

(Plate,  Sup.  Grades  II  and  III.) 
WORD  STUDY  BOOKLET 

Materials :  Cover  paper  for  cover  141/4"x41/^",  5  sheets, 
word  study  tablet  paper  13 ^"x^"  for  filler,  No.  16  yarn 
darner,  crochet  cotton. 

Construction:  Fold  each  of  the  five  sheets  of  tablet 
paper  and  the  cover  paper  into  booklet  form.  Place  the 
tablet  paper  within  the  covers,  leaving  about  14"  margin 
on  all  sides.  With  booklet  open,  pierce  holes  1"  from 
each  end  of  center  fold  and  one  in  the  middle.  See  (A) 
Supplementary  Plate.  Threading  the  needle  with  crochet 
cotton,  start  at  the  center  (1)  and  follow  through  to  (8) 
as  in  (B)  Supplementary  Plate.  Tie  on  the  inside  with 
double  knot  and  cut,  leaving  y2"  ends.  Fray  ends  with 
pin.  Decorate  with  suitable  freehand  cutting.  Consider 
the  long  narrow  shape  of  the  cover  and  select  a  cutting 
accordingly  making  it  large  enough  to  balance  the  back- 
ground. As  a  rule,  it  is  best  to  leave  the  decoration  of 
the  cover  till  the  book  is  nearly  filled.  If  the  name  is 

22 


added,  have  the  children  print  it  in  simple  lettering  on 
a  separate  piece  of  white  paper  and  paste  it  at  least  1" 
from  the  bottom  of  the  cover,  with  a  margin  of  i/o"  at  the 
sides. 

LANGUAGE  OF  CUTTING  BOOKLET.  Materials 
Cover  paper  9"xl4Vo",  tablet  paper  with  special  ruling 
and  margins  8y2"xl334",  kraft  paper  8y2"xl3%",  No.  16 
yarn  darners,  crochet  cotton. 

Construction :  Fold  tablet  paper  S^'xlS^"  for  Lan- 
guage book  or  kraft  paper  S^'xlS^"  for  cutting  book 
for  inside  of  book,  place  within  cover  and  pierce 
holes  1"  from  top  and  2"  from  bottom  as  in  Supplemen- 
tary Plate  (C).  Sew  as  directed  for  Word  study  booklet. 
Use  not  more  than  10  sheets  for  the  filler  of  book — less  if 
desired. 

Decoration :  When  the  book  is  filled,  decorate  the 
cover  with  a  free  hand  paper  cutting.  Consider  again  the' 
shape  and  proportions  of  the  cover  and  how  it  differs  from 
the  word  study  booklet.  Bear  in  mind  both  the  cutting 
and  name  or  subject  slip  when  arranging  the  whole  com- 
position of  the  cover. 


23 


THE  HOLDER. 

(Plate  II.,  Grade  II.) 

TIME.  The  holder  should  be  made  during  December 
and  may  be  used  as  a  Christmas  gift. 

MATERIALS.  Heavy  pasteboard  loom  6y2"xG3/4", 
rug  needles  or  yarn  darners  No.  10  for  weaving,  knitting 
needles  to  hold  outside  warp  strings,  Germantown  wool 
for  weft,  carpet  warp. 

STRINGING  THE  WARP.  Hold  the  loom  with  its 
teeth  at  the  top  and  bottom.  Fasten  the  end  of  the  warp 
thread  around  the  lower  right  hand  corner  tooth,  bring 
up  over  the  first  notch  on  the  right  at  the  top  and  around 
the  first  tooth  to  the  left,  down  to  the  second  notch  at 
the  bottom,  around  the  third  tooth  to  the  left  and  up 
to  the  third  notch  at  the  top.  Continue  thus  until  the 
loom  is  filled  on  one  side,  having  an  odd  number  of  warp 
threads.  Fasten  the  end  of  warp  to  the  last  corner  tooth. 
Fasten  a  knitting  needle  to  either  side  with  the  small  1" 
rubber  bands  to  keep  sides  straight. 

WEAVING.  Plan  first  the  combination  and  spacing 
of  color,  allowing  pupils  to  use  two  or  three  harmonious 
colors.  Show  simple  arrangements  of  color  on  the  black- 
board as  green  for  the  body  and  rose  and  green  for  the 
stripes,  tan  for  -the  body  and  green,  rose  and  tan  for  the 
stripes.  If  colored  crayons  are  available,  the  children 
might  work  out  the  holder  in  color  on  drawing  paper  for 
seat  work.  Use  care  in  apportioning  yarn  so  as  not  to  run 
out  of  any  particular  color.  Weave  over  one  and  under  one, 
joining  new  threads  by  "running  by"  or  running  through 
the  end  of  the  old  thread. 

A  loop  should  be  added  to  the  holder.  It  may  be 
braided,  twisted,  hand  crocheted  or  buttonholed  over  a 
ring.  The  children  should  furnish  their  own  rings. 

SUPPLEMENTARY.  A  washable  holder  of  white 
cotton  yarn  (to  be  furnished  by  the  children)  or  a  baby's 
ball  may  be  made,  (for  which  the  yarn  will  be  furnished.) 

BABY'S  BALL  .  Plate  II. 

MATERIALS:     Newspaper,  old  cloth    or    stocking, 

24 


Germantown  wool,  strong  cord,  cuch  as  carpet  warp. 

Take  a  page  of  newspaper.  Crush  in  hand  until  it 
forms  a  ball.  A  small  tin  box  containing  two  or  three 
tacks  or  stones  may  be  enclosed  in  paper  to  make  a  rattle. 
Cut  old  stocking  or  tear  soft  cloth  into  1"  strips.  Wind 
these  smoothly  around  ball  of  paper  until  it  is  the  size 
wanted,  about  2^"  in  diameter.  Wind  with  strong  cord 
as  illustrated  (I.)  stitching  securely  at  (a)  and  (b).  Be 
sure  to  have  an  even  number  of  warp  threads  for  back 
weaving  (c)  and  an  odd  number  for  straight  weaving, 
over  and  under.  Begin  weaving  with  Germantown  wool 
at  one  end.  Stripes  of  a  harmonizing  color  may  be  woven 
in.  Finish  with  a  6"  braid,  using  two  pieces  to  a  strand, 
and  fasten  to  one  end  of  the  ball. 


25 


RUG  WEAVING. 

(Plate  III.) 

MATERIALS.  Carpet  warp,  about  2  spools  per 
room.  Carpet  yarn,  about  12  Ibs.  per  room. 

STRINGING  UP.  The  warp  required  for  one  rug 
is  about  9  yards  and  should  be  in  one  continuous  string. 
Let  a  few  of  the  children  prepare  warp  for  distribution 
to  class.  Give  them  pieces  of  cardboard  and  tell  them 
how  many  times  to  go  around  to  have  the  amount  needed. 

Make  end  firm  by  fastening  it  around  several  teeth. 
The  first  thread  should  be  directly  over  the  rod  at  the 
left.  The  stringing  goes  back  and  forth  till  the  rod  at 
right  is  reached.  String  over  this  rod  and  fasten  by  wind- 
ing end  of  warp  around  the  teeth  of  loom.  ( If  these  ends 
hang  loose  when  the  rug  is  taken  off  the  loom,  run  them 
into  rug  with  a  needle). 

Weaving.  The  weft  goes  over  and  under  the  warp. 
The  rod  at  each  side  provided  for  keeping  the  mat  in 
shape  should  be  counted  in  with  'the  weft  thread  directly 
above  it. 

Before  beginning  weaving,  decide  on  the  design.  The 
simplest  has  a  plain  center  and  end  borders.  These  may 
be  darker.  The  next  step  is  a  rug  with  stripes.  It  is 
well  to  separate  these  from  the  body  of  the  rug  with 
black  or  tan.  The  third  and  most  difficult  is  working  out 
a  simple  design  in  the  center.  If  this  is  attempted,  the 
design  should  first  be  drawn  on  paper,  (See  Plate.) 

The  weaving  of  stripes  involves  quite  enough  study 
for  the  average  second  grade.  The  combination  of  from 
3  to  5  colors  in  the  stripes,  arranging  them  in  their  proper 
proportion,  allowing  the  width  of  one  thread  for  some 
colors  and  the  width  of  two  or  more  for  others;  all  of 
these  things  shall  be  considered  even  in  so  simple  a  design 
as  a  striped  border. 

Rug  yarns  should  always  be  broken,  not  cut.  Begin 
weaving  at  the  bottom  of  loom.  Leave  several  inches  of 
weft  to  run  up  loops  at  side  of  rug.  As  you  continue  to 
weave,  break  wool  at  the  center  of  loom.  Splicing  is 
done  by  "running  by."  Most  children  pack  too  tightly 

26 


in  center  of  rugs.  The  latter  are  much  prettier  if  the 
weft  is  close,  not  crowded.  Pack  weft  threads  tightly  at 
at  head  and  foot  to  allow  for  pushing  weft  back  to  warp 
threads  when  rug  is  finished.  Caution  children  against 
pulling  weft  too  tightly  across  loom. 

In  case  of  border  or  stripes,  weave  set  at  bottom,  turn 
loom  around  weave  set  at  other  end.  Finish  by  weaving 
from  one  set  to  the  other. 

Before  removing,  shear  off  all  the  loose  ends  and 
roughness  by  holding  left  hand  under  rug  and  pushing  it 
close  to  shears.  Brush  with  stiff  brush.  Draw  out  rods, 
lift  rug.  Push  back  weft  threads  to  fill  loops  at  ends.  Add 
fringe  if  desired.  ^ 

SUPPLEMENTARY.  For  those  finishing  their  work 
before  the  others  very  interesting  rugs  may  be  made  of 
strips  of  outing  flannel,  or  of  other  materials. 

The  children  may  be  interested  in  working  out  some 
home  made  looms.  Some  of  these  are  shown  on  pages  73 
and  75  of  "Occupations  for  Little  Fingers." 

A  community  rug  is  a  good  problem.  For  this  a  large 
loom  may  be  made  by  janitor  or  older  pupil  and  the  work 
done  by  different  children  as  they  have  opportunity.  Firm 
side  rods  or  some  sort  of  heddle  will  b°  very  necessary  to 
hold  in  place  the  warp  threads  of  such  a  loom. 

Another  way  is  to  have  12  or  more  small  rugs  made 
and  then  sewed  together.  This  may  bo  planned  so  that 
certain  children  weave  the  borders  and  others  the  plain 
part  of  the  rug. 

A  RUG  WITH  FIGURE. 

(Plate  III.) 

Make  a  plan  on  paper  exact  size.  This  may  be  laid 
under  the  loom.  Work  figure  first  then  filling.  Work  the 
filling  to  the  figure  and  turn  on  the  same  warp  thread  on 
which  figure  ends.  Each  time  across  with  the  filling,  slip 
back  a  thread  of  the  figure  until  all  is  used.  Then  push  up 
tightly.  Keep  the  threads  of  the  figure  loose  till  all  the  fil- 
ing is  done,  as  it  makes  it  easier  to  slip  the  threads  back. 

27 


This  slipping  back  is  necessary  where  vertical  lines  are  us- 
ed, as  in  Fig.  A.  If  this  seems  too  difficult,  they  may  be 
sewed  together. 

In  case  of  a  diamond  shape  or  a  figure  having  oblique 
lines,  each  thread  of  the  figure  ends  on  a  different  weft 
thread,  so  there  is  no  need  of  slipping  back.  (Fig.  B.) 
The  point  (c)  may  be  fastened  with  a  pin  till  work  is 
started. 


28 


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THIRD  GRADE. 
EQUIPMENT  AND  SUPPLIES. 

Material  Size 

Equipments 

Blue  print  Plates .__     2'x3"  1  set 

Scissors — use  5th  grade 

Needles    Xo.  1C  1  per  pupil 

Stone  jar  with  cover  (use:l  also 

for  1st  and  2nd  grades) 6  gal.  1  per  bldg. 

Supplies 

Macrame  cord   7  balls 

Brass  rings %"                                 100 

Raffia,  uncolored 12  Ibs. 

Raffia,  colored  2  Ibs. 

Carpet  warp 1  spool 

Clay   20  Ibs. 

Cover  paper  (for  book) I_  4y2"xl4i4"              50  sh. 

Cover  paper  (for  book) 9"xl4i4"                50  sh. 

Tablet  paper     (for  language 

book) 1 13%"xSV2"          1000  sh. 

Tablet  paper  (for  spelling  book)  13y2"x4"                 250  sh. 

Paste  board  loom  (for  plaid) 4i/2"x61/2"                     50 

KNOTTING. 

(Plate  I., -Grade  III.) 

1.  PREPARATORY  LESSON 

Take  three  full  length  pieces  of  raffia.  Cut  in  halves 
and  use  one  piece  for  tying  around  a  paste  board  about 
4"xG".  If  the  raffia  is  30"  or  more  in  length,  the  strands 
may  be  cut  in  3  parts  and  2  strands  will  be  enough. 
Use  five  short  strands  for  looping  over  the  first 
piece.  Teach  the  knot,  emphasizing  these  points  Use  a 
measure  tagboard  I"x2")  to  keep  rows  of  knots  one  inch 
•ipart.  Knot  loosely  at  first.  Tighten  by  pushing  up  not 
pulling  down.  Illustrate  on  board. 

2.  STRINGBAG 

30 


Take  twenty  strands  of  raffia,  and  a  piece  of  paste- 
board about  4"x6".  (If  the  raffia  is  over  30"  long  only  half 
strands  will  be  needed.)  For  this  last,  the  backs  of  tablets 
or  any  old  boxes  may  be  used.  Have  the  drawing  strings 
braided  of  rather  fine  raffia  and  tie  them,  in  place  aronnd 
the  pasteboard.  Over  these  the  strands  should  be  knotted. 
Lay  over  the  braid  one  strand,  make  ends  even  and  tie  knot 
1  inch  from  the  top.  If  children  are  capable,  %"  orV>" 
may  be  the  measure  between  rows  of  knots.  Continue  knot- 
ting until  there  are  eight  strands  on  each  side  of  the  paste- 
board (Plate  I,  fig.  a),  making  16  strands  in  all.  The 
strands  at  the  extreme  left  and  right  (m  and  n)  are  knot- 
tei  to  the  next  strands  on  the  other  side  of  the  pasteboard. 
The  next  row  of  knots  is  started  1"  below  the  first 
row.  From  four  to  six  rows  of  knots  are  needed. 
The  length  of  the  bag  from  the  top  to  the  last  row  of  knots 
being  about  5".  If  possible,  have  a  few  balls  of  string  on 
hand  to  try  within  the  bag  so  that  the  bag  may  be  made  the 
proper  length.  Tie  tightly  one-half  inch  below  the  last 
row.  Cut  off  raffia  ends,  leaving  about  2  inches  for  tassel. 
Fray  it  out  with  a  pin.  The  bag  may  be  all  of  white  raffia 
or  white  combined  with  a  color. 

APPLICATION 

After  finishing  the  stringbag,  give  all  a  chance  in 
applying  the  knotting  to  other  articles,  such  as  bags  for 
books,  shopping  or  fancy  work,  which  might  be  lined 
with  low  toned  colors  of  silk  or  cotton.  Bottles  of  good 
design  and  old  ginger  and  mustard  jars  may  be  covered 
and  used  as  hanging  vases.  Make  this  knotted  covering 
in  either  white  or  colored  raffia,  knotting  directly  on  the 
jar  or  bottle  to  be  covered. 


31 


A  DOLL'S  HAMMOCK. 

(Plate  II.,  Grade  III.) 

MATERIALS :  Nine  pieces  of  macrame  cord, 
yards  each — eight  pieces  are  for  strands,  one  piece  is  for 
binding.  Two  brass  rings.  The  pieces  of  pasteboard 
used  in  the  string  ball  might  be  utilized  for  winding  off 
the  ten  yards  of  cord  for  each  child  or  have  the  cord  cut 
in  lengths  needed  and  loosely  knotted  into  bunches  for 
each  row,  before  time  set  for  lesson. 

CONSTRUCTION  :  Double  each  strand  in  middle  and 
loop  through  rings  as  in  (a).  Put  through  each  of  the 
eight  strands  in  the  same  way.  Four  inches  from  ring 
start  knotting  for  mesh.  See  (b).  One  inch  from  first 
row  make  second.  Continue  till  there  is  only  enough 
left  at  other  end  for  the  four  inch  space  and  for 
binding. 

Note  that  the  outside  cord  is  held  a  little  tight  and 
that  the  distance  between  the  knots  is  nearly  two  inches  be- 
cause of  its  being  the  outside  strand. 

Take  one-half  yard  for  binding.  Untwist  and 
use  only  one  strand,  as  a  finer  cord  should  be  used  in 
binding. 

When  knotting  is  finished,  gather  all  ends  through 
the  other  ring  as  in  (c),  remembering  that  the  distance 
from  the  ring  to  the  last  row  of  knots  should  be  four 
inches. 

(M)  in  illustration  (d)  is  the  beginning  of  the  wind- 
ing thread.  Lay  it  on  top  of  strands  on  the  ring,  take 
it  back  toward  knots  one  inch  and  then  back  to  (s),  form- 
ing a  loop.  Wind  as  shown  till  most  of  loop  is  covered. 
Draw  end  of  strand  through  loop  as  at  (x).  Pull  gently 
on  (m).  This  will  draw  loop  and  with  it  (x)  under  the 
windings.  Then  the  ends  may  be  cut  close.  Do  not  pull 
end  (x)  more  than  half  an  inch  through  the  binding  or  it 
will  be  loosened. 

This  binding  should  be  illustrated  on  the  board  and 
also  with  a  large  cord  or  rope. 

32 


A  BABY  HAMMOCK. 

(Plate,  Sup.  Grade  III.) 

This  hammock  may  be  made  by  pupils  who  enter 
fourth  grade  in  January  and  have  made  baskets  the  pre- 
ceding year. 

MATERIALS  :  Hammock  cord,  y2  lb-  Per  pupil ;  net- 
ting needle  (made  by  the  4th  grade  with  coping  saw) 
mesh  stick  (ruler),  2  iron  rings  2". 

CONSTRUCTION :  Instructions  for  the  making  of 
this  hammock  will  be  given  those  who  wish  it  when  needed. 


33 


BASKETRY. 

(Plate  III.,  Grade  III.) 

MATERIALS:  No.  16  yarn  darner,  imcolored  and 
colored  raffia.  The  uncolored  raffia  conies  in  braided 
hanks  and  for  all  braiding,  knotting  and  coiling  should 
be  dampened  previous  to  lesson  given,  so  as  to  straighten 
out  the  waves  in  it  and  make  it  easier  to  handle.  The 
hank  of  raffia  may  be  loosened,  rolled  in  a  wet  flour  sack 
and  left  over  night,  or,  if  only  a  short  time  is  allowed, 
dipped  in  water  and  wrung  out.  Of  the  two  ways  the  first 
is  better  as  the  raffia  will  then  be  moist  and  pliable  but 
not  wet.  Much  time  may  be  saved  by  having  the  raffia 
divided  into  bunches  and  loosely  knotted,  ready  for  dis- 
tribution by  the  monitors,  before  the  time  set  for  the  les- 
son. 

DESIGN :  This  work  should  be  done  in  the  drawing 
period.  The  simplest  of  all  designs  is  where  a  border 
Is  formed  by  dropping  the  natural  raffia  and  using  the  col- 
ored once,  twice  or  three  times  around  (Plate  III.,  1,  2). 
The  next  would  be  the  breaking  up  of  this  solid  border  into 
interesting  units  (Plate  III.,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7)  as  illustrated 
in  the  Drawing  Outline,  Charts  16  and  17. 

The  design  may  be  planned  on  radiating  lines.  A 
center  is  first  made  from  2  to  4  inches  across,  using  no 
color.  Divide  this  by  colored  stitches  as  in  (Plate  III  8-9- 
10. )  Paper  may  be  folded  to  find  these  points  and  pins  put 
in.  With  these  for  a  start,  various  designs  might  arise  as  in 
(Plate  III.,  11,  12,  13,  14.) 

MATERIAL:  Take  from  10  to  15  strands  of  raffia, 
or  enough  to  make  a  coil  about  14"  thick.  Wrap  large 
end  of  coil  to  the  distance  of  about  an  iy2",  with  raffia 
threaded  into  a  needle.  Take  a  stitch  through  coil  to 
hold  winds.  Coil  into  shape  and  fasten  with  3  or  4  over 
and  over  stitches.  (See  Plate  III.,  A  and  B).  Then 
wind  three  times  and  take  a  stitch.  Take  the  stitch 
slightly  into  next  coil  below  as  in  Plate  III.  (c)  or  over  the 
whole  of  next  coil  below  as  in  (d).  As  a  rule,  keep  the 
mats  about  5"  across. 

34 


BASKET :  This  is  started  in  the  same  way  except 
that  when  enough  has  been  sewed  to  form  the  bottom, 
not  more  than  5  or  less  than  3  inches — the  new  coil  is 
then  held  more  nearly  on  the  upper  side  of  the  old  coil 
and  slowly  shapes  to  the  form  planned  (Plate  III.,  e). 


36 


WORD  STUDY  BOOKLETS. 

(Sup.  Plate,  Grades  II.  and  III.) 

MATERIALS:  Cover  paper  for  cover  14i/4"x4i/2", 
spelling  tablet  paper  13y2"x4",  5  sheets  per  pupil,  No. 
16  yarn  darner,  1  ball  crochet  cotton. 

CONSTRUCTION :  Fold  one  at  a  time  the  five 
sheets  of  tablet  paper  131/2"x4".  Bring  together  into 
booklet  form  and  place  within  the  covers  with  i/4"  margin 
on  sides  and  bottom.  With  booklet  open,  pierce  holes 
1"  from  each  end  of  center  fold  and  one  in  the  middle. 
See  (A)  Supplementary  Plate.  Threading  the  needle 
with  crochet  cotton,  start  at  the  center  (1)  and  follow 
through  to  (8)  as  in  (B)  Supplementary  Plate.  Tie 
ends  with  pin.  When  the  book  is  filled  decorate  with  a 
suitable  freehand  cutting  or  painting.  See  that  it  is  in 
keeping  with  the  shape  of  the  cover,  long  and  narrow,  and 
that  it  is  of  good  size  to  balance  the  background. 

LANGUAGE  BOOKLET. 

MATERIALS:  Cover  paper  9"xl4i4",  tablet  paper 
with  special  ruling  and  margins  8i/2"xl3%",  No.  18  yarn 
darners,  crochet  cotton. 

CONSTRUCTION:  Fold  paper  for  inside  of  book, 
place  within  cover  and  pierce  holes  1"  from  top  and  2" 
from  bottom,  Supplementary  Plate  (c).  Sew  as  directed 
for  Word  Study  Booklet. 

DECORATION :  When  the  book  is  about  filled  with 
written  work  done  in  the  regular  language  period,  paste 
on  the  cover  a  well  mounted  water  color  drawing  selected 
from  the  drawing  lessons  or  some  special  sketch  in  keeping 
with  the  contents  of  the  book. 


36 


DEVELOPMENT  OF  THE  PLAID. 

(Plate  III.  Grade  III.) 

MATERIALS:  Raffia,  colored  and  uiieolored,  yarn 
darner  No.  16  or  Packers  bent  needle.  For  a  loom,  use 
the  regular  2nd  grade  Todd  loom,  if  not  in  use,  or  the 
pasteboard  loom  Gi/y/'x^/o "•  If  a  bag  is  made  on  this 
pasteboard  loom  nothing  will  be  needed  to  keep  the  sides 
straight,  but  if  the  weaving  is  done  on  one  side  only  as 
for  a  needle  book,  the  2nd  grade  knitting  needles  will  be 
necessary  to  keep  the  sides  even.  The  2nd  grade  paste- 
board loom  GV^xG1/-/'  might  also  be  borrowed  if  not  in 
use. 

THE  PLAID  :  Have  children  bring  samples  of  plaids 
in  wools,  ginghams  and  silks,  from  which  a  study  of 
combination  and  spacing  of  color  may  be  made.  Each 
child  should  select  his  colors  after  sufficient  suggestions 
from  the  teacher.  If  time  allows  the  drawing  of  the 
plaid  in  pencil,  colored  crayons  or  water  color  would  great- 
ly assist  in  the  actual  weaving  of  the  colors. 

STRINGING  UP:  (See  Plate  IV.)  Use  raffia,  ty- 
ing together  the  colors  as  needed  to  form  the  plaid.  Use 
the  square  knot  (page  12,  Occupations  for  Little  Fin- 
gers). For  the  single  side  string  up  in  the  usual  way, 
fastening  the  end  around  one  corner  tooth.  For  the  double 
weaving  or  bag,  string  up  as  follows:  Fasten  the  raffia 
at  the  lower  left  hand  notch,  carry  it  up  the  front  over 
the  first  notch  on  the  left  at  the  top,  continue  on  opposite 
side  to  the  first  notch  at  the  bottom,  around  the  first  tooth 
to  the  right,  return  over  the  same  notch  at  the  top  to  the 
second  notch  at  the  bottom.  An  extra  warp  string  must 
be  added  to  give  an  odd  numbec  of  weaving. 

If  a  single  side  is  to  be  woven,  fasten  knitting  needles 
to  either  side  with  the  small  rubber  bands  to  keep  sides 
straight. 

WEAVING :  Beginning  at  the  top  and  fastening 
raffia  to  the  warp  string,  weave  over  one  and  under  one 
across  the  front  and  over  the  needles  at  either  side  in  the 
rflse  of  weaving  a  single  side  and  around  the  loom  in  the 
case  of  the  bag. 

37 


HANDLES :  Braid  several  strands  of  the  different 
colors  used,  devising  some  neat  way  of  fastening-  them  to 
the  bag.  One  way  is  to  thread  them  on  a  needle  and 
draw  through  the  bag,  knotting  the  ends  on  the  inside. 
If  the  bag  is  lined,  these  knots  would  then  be  covered. 


38 


CLAY. 

(Plate  III.  Grade  III.) 

TIME  REQUIRED  FOE  LESSON :  The  distribution, 
lesson,  and  collection  should  not  take  over  half  an  hour. 
As  an  hour  is  entirely  too  long  a  period  for  a  clay  lesson, 
those  who  have  been  using  that  length  period,  for  the  man- 
ual work,  will  need  to  distribute  the  time  over  two  after- 
noons rather  than  one. 

PREPARATION  OF  CLAY  BY  JANITOR:  The 
janitor  receives  the  clay  in  bags  as  a  dust.  He  has  been 
given  all  direction  for  preparing  it  for  teacher's  use.  It 
is  put  into  a -stone  jar  and  mixed  with  water  until  it 
has  the  consistency  of  putty.  It  is  then  molded  into 
bricks  about  4"  by  4"  by  10"  or  larger,  as  called  for  by 
teacher.  About  three  or  four  bricks  are  sufficient  for  a 
lesson. 

The  clay  will  be  brought  or  sent  to  the  teacher  by  the 
janitor. 

PREPARATION  FOR  CLAY  BY  TEACHER :  The 
teacher  should  make  her  request  for  clay  the  night  before 
it  is  needed,,  so  that  the  janitor  may  have  sufficient  time 
to  order  his  work  accordingly.  The  bricks  may  be  cut 
into  pieces  for  distribution  by  means  of  a  piece  of  string 
or  wire.  As  a  rule  the  2"x4"x4"  piece  will  be  enough  for 
each  pupil.  2  sheets  of  brown  paper  9"xl2"  or  its  equiva- 
lent, should  be  used  for  each  desk  and  the  clay  kept  on 
this  paper  throughout  the  lesson.  The  same  sheets  may 
be  used  several  times  and  then  destroyed  and  new  ones 
substituted. 

One  wooden  tool  is  furnished.  A  moist  cloth  for  the 
fingers  will  be  helpful  in  finishing  off  the  work. 

CARE  OF  CLAY  AFTER  LESSON:  When  lesson 
is  over  children  clean  off  hands  over  paper  and  gather  all 
the  bits  of  clay  in  one  lump.  The  best  three  pieces  are 
selected  and  the  monitors  collect  the  rest,  putting  all 
together  on  the  board  for  the  janitor.  The  selected  pieces 
may  be  kept  out  for  a  few  days  and  then,  if  there  is 
no  cupboard  shelf  to  keep  them  on,  they  should  be  plac- 
ed in  a  box  where  they  will  be  free  from  dust  and 

39 


injury. 

OUTLINE :  The  lessons  are  divided  into  three 
groups. 

I.  Tiles — Simple,  geometric  designs  in  line  and  area. 

II.  Modeling  from  natural  forms  and  in  illustration 

of  games,  occupations  or  experiences  of  chil- 
dren. 

III.  Simple  pottery  forms. 

METHODS :  Group  I.  Tile  to  be  4",  the  design  3~y2" 
sq.  Fold  By2"  square  of  paper  and  cut  design.  Suggest  sev- 
eral simple  forms  that  may  be  cut  from  the  square  by  fold- 
ing in  quarters.  Trace  on  drawing  paper  within  4"  sq.  Use 
soft  pencil.  Make  tile  4"x4"x1/1>".  Keep  it  will  wedged  to- 
gether. (See  "Clay  Work,"  p.  22.)  Transfer  design  to  tile, 
by  laying  design  face  down  on  clay  and  pressing  lightly 
with  fingers.  The  first  design  may  be  incised  with  a  y8" 
line,  using  pencil  end  of  tool,  rounding  all  sharp  edges. 
("Clay  Work,"  p.  05)  The  second  should  be  worked  in  low 
relief  as  follows :  Take  coil  of  clay  about  size  of  slate  pen- 
cil. Outline  design.  Fill  in  with  small  pieces  till  about 
%"  thick.  Smooth  surface  with  thumb.  Thumb  may  be 
moistened  on  wet  cloth.  There  may  be  a  slight  depression 
running  through  the  center  of  design.  The  ridge  on  outer 
edge  is  smoothed  back  into  form,  leaving  it  rounded. 

Group  II.  (See  "Clay  Work,"  pp.  41-44.)  These 
illustrations  may  be  in  the  round  or  in  high  relief  on  a 
plaque.  They  may  be  made  from  the  pose  or  from  mem- 
ory or  imagination.  This  work  may  be  approached  in 
various  ways.  The  story  may  be  discussed  with  the  aim 
of  bringing  out  the  point  of  vital  interest  or  the  various 
ideas  of  the  story  may  be  modeled.  For  example  the 
rhyme,  "Tom  the  Piper's  Son,"  was  taken.  The  part  chos- 
en for  illustration  was  "Away  He  Kan."  Each  model  rep- 
resented Torn  running,  but  the  manner  of  getting  the  pig 
away  varied.  If  preferred,  different  parts  of  a  story  may 
be  assigned  to  different  pupils.  Emphasize  the  distribu- 
tion of  illustration  over  the  entire  tile  rather  than  crowd- 
ing it  in  center  or  in  one  corner. 

In  making  a  selection  for  the  study  of  natural  forms, 
secure  large  simple  ones  such  as  the  horse  chestnut  bud, 

40 


the  trillium,  dog  wood,  tulip  and  jack  in  pulpit,    As  far 
as  possible  each  child  should  be  supplied  with  model. 

After  the  tile  of  suitable  size  is  made,  sketch  lightly 
upon  it  with  pointed  tool.  A  coil  of  clay  the  thickness  of 
a  slate  pencil  is  rolled  out  and  the  outline  formed.  The 
coils  are  pressed  well  on  to  the  clay.  The  inner  space  is 
next  filled  with  small  pieces  of  clay,  well  worked  together. 
("Clay  Work,"  pages  26-30). 

After  the  space  is  filled  enough  more  clay  is  added  to 
give  the  desired  variety  in  the  relief. 

Do  not  attempt  to  make  the  clay  as  thin  as  the  leaf 
itself.  Undercutting  the  edge  gives  the  effect  of  thin- 
ness quite  sufficiently. 

Group  III.  ( See  "Clay  Work,"  pp.  84-89. )  The  first 
lesson  should  be  on  forms  of  bowls,  jars  and  vases.  Show 
examples  of  good  forms.  Draw  one-half  the  design  on 
paper,  fold  on  center  and  cut.  A  piece  of  roofing  tile 
and  old  slate,  or  a  pie  pan  turned  upside  down  is  of  great 
service  to  work  on — it  may  be  turned  and  the  form  watched 
from  every  side.  Make  small  coil  of  clay  about  1/2"  thick 
and  form  circles  for  bottom  of  bowl,  wedging  together 
as  in  the  tile,  making  it  about  %"  thick.  Shape  sides  by 
laying  the  coils  properly  as  in  the  raffia  basket. 

In  smoothing  and  pressing  the  coils  together,  one 
hand  should  be  kept  on  the  outside  while  working  inside, 
thus  keeping  the  contour.  WThen  working  on  the  out- 
side the  walls  should  be  braced  from  the  inside.  Before 
the  successive  coils  are  added,  the  preceding  coil  should 
be  flattened  a  trifle  with  the  thumb,  making  a  better  sur- 
face for  the  next  coil  to  rest  upon.  If  any  piece  is  un- 
finished at  close  of  lesson  it  may  be  wrapped  in  damp 
cloth  and  put  in  a  tin  box  or  small  stone  jar,  or  covered 
with  a  piece  of  oil  cloth. 

Very  simple  designs  may  be  incised. 

These  later  lessons  may  take  the  full  hour. 

THE  AVERAGE  TIME  remaining  for  these  lessons 
after  the  plaids  are  finished  is  five  weeks.  In  this  time  not 
more  than  the  first  two  groups  can  be  covered.  Those  clas- 
ses making  baskets  will  have  little  or  no  time  for  clay  mod- 
eling. 

41 


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FOURTH  GRADE. 

COPING  SAW. 

EQUIPMENT  AND  SUPPLIES. 
EQUIPMENT— I  chest  per   bldg.,  1   set   of   Blue   Print 

Plates  2x6  ft.  for  each  4th  grade. 

Material  Size  Amount 

per  chest 
12 
48 
24 
48 
48 
12 
24 
6 
6 

12 
Amount 


Brad  awls 1/32" 

Coping  Saw  Frames 

Compasses,  Eagle No.  576 

Iron  Clamps No.  2 

Saw  Tables 

Sloyd  Knife No.  50 

Tack  Hammer No.  25 

Tool  Chest  Trays 

Try  Square  No.  20 4i/2" 

Wood  Files 6" 

SUPPLIES 


Thin  Wood 

Sand  Paper  (sheet  to  be  torn  in 

12  pieces)   

Brads 

Brads  

Glue,     LePage's     (ordered     as 

needed    

Iron  Wire 

Saw  Blades 

Prepared  Wax 

Stain — Johnson's  wood  dye 

Nails — Furniture 


i/8"x6"x!2' 


No.  1  96  sh. 

%"  two  1,4  lb.  pkg. 

%"  two  1,4  lb.  pkg. 

1/2  pt.  can       1  per  chest 
No.  16,  2  Ibs.  (about  350 
ft). 

%  gross 
1/4  lb.  1  can 

%  Pt- 
No.  42   (pap.)       1  pap. 


43 


GENERAL  SUGGESTIONS. 

EQUIPMENT  AND  SUPPLIES— In  all  buildings 
where  there  is  a  manual  training  center  for  boya 
and  girls,  the  fourth  grades  in  that  building  ma^ 
use  the  center  if  not  in  use  by  the  regular  classes. 
The  work  can  be  done  better  and  more  easily  in  the  center 
than  in  the  class  room.  The  bench  in  the  combination 
centers  is  provided  with  two  adjustable  saw  tables,  one 
to  be  clamped  in  the  vise  the  other  held  by  a  bolt  in  a 
suitable  bracket  at  the  other  end  of  the  bench.  The  chil- 
dren then  can  stand  up  at  their  work.  When  using  th:j 
center  there  is  no  change  in  the  method  of  handling  the 
equipment,  etc.,  from  that  in  the  regular  school  room. 

WOOD :  The  wood  used  for  this  work  is  spruce,  pine 
and  hemlock  and  is  supplied  in  boards  about  o1/^"  by!2"  by 
3/16".  Call  attention  to  grain,  and  how  the  strength  of 
any  piece  is  affected  by  the  grain  of  wood. 

SAWS.  The  saws  furnished  are  frail,  but  when  the 
pupil  is  taught  to  use  them  properly  there  need  be  fe^ 
broken  ones  after  the  first  term.  Show  on  the  black- 
board the  shape  of  the  teeth  (enlarge)  ;  what  movement 
they  require;  how  they  may  be  adjusted  if  too  loose,  and 
how  new  saws  are  put  in.  The  breaking  of  saws  is  gen- 
erally caused  by  one  of  the  three  following  reasons :  By 
the  framework  spreading  and  causing  too  much  tension 
in  the  small  loops  at  either  end  of  the  saw  or  by  becom- 
ing compressed,  making  the  saw  blade  too  loose.  (The 
back  of  the  saw  frame  is  easily  bent  either  way  with  the 
saw  blade  removed  over  the  edge  of  a  table  or  desk) ;  by 
sawing  with  saw  held  at  an  angle  to  the  board  much 
less  than  a  right  angle;  by  pushing  instead  of  letting 
the  saw  do  the  work  while  the  hand  simply  keeps  up  the 
vertical  movement. 

HAMMERS.  Teach  the  correct  holding  of  the  ham- 
mer— near  the  end  of  the  handle. 

FILES.  Woodfiles — Files  are  cutting  tools  and  have 
cutting  teeth  like  small  chisels.  A  file  is  used  to  scrape 
or  cut  away  the  edges  or  small  surfaces  of  the  wood  too 
rough  or  jagged  to  be  sandpapered  away,  such  edges 

44 


as  are  caused  by  bad  and  careless  sawing.  For  this 
reason  good  workmen  rarely  need  to  use  the  file  in  their 
work.  In  using  the  file  hold  the  work  firmly  on  or  against 
the  saw  table  and  file  away  from  you,  bearing  down  on 
the  forward  stroke  which  does  all  the  cutting.  As  it 
is  a  cutting  tool  be  sure  and  file  with  the  direction  of 
the  grain  or  across  the  grain,  but  never  against  the 
grain. 

These  files  are  for  use  where  sandpaper  does  not  ans- 
wer, or  for  cases  where  more  wood  is  to  be  removed  as  in 
making  a  beveled  edge.  They  are  often  wrongly  used  to 
cover  up  poor  sawing  and  such  use  should  be  discouraged. 

AWLS.  There  are  two  sizes,  small  and  large.  The 
proper  way  to  use  them  is  with  a  boring  motion  resting 
the  work  on  the  saw  table,  not  simply  driving  them  in. 
The  latter  way  will  be  apt  to  split  the  wood. 

SANDPAPER.  No.  1  is  furnished  for  smoothing  the 
pieces  and  should  be  torn  into  small  pieces  about  12  to 
the  sheet  and  distributed  as  needed,  the  pupil  should 
always  use  it  folded  over  a  small  block  and  not  in  the 
moist  fingers,  which  causes  the  glue  in  the  paper  to  melt, 
releasing  the  sand  from  its  surface. 

Place  the  work  on  the  saw  table  and  sandpaper  the 
flat  sides  first,  rubbing  first  across  and  then  with  the 
grain.  Then  the  square  edges  next,  in  the  same  order, 
and  lastly  touch  off  the  corners  or  edges  lightly  enough 
to  remove  their  sharp  feeling.  In  this  way  the  work  can 
be  given  that  sharp,  clean  appearance  that  is  pleasing 
to  touch  and  sight  while  carefully  preserving  the  true 
outline  of  the  parts. 

GLUE :  It  is  a  liquid  glue  in  i/2  P*-  cans.  Have  the 
class  understand  why  it  holds  the  parts  together.  All  glu- 
ing up  should  be  done  at  one  table,  using  small  sticks  for 
applying.  Keep  a  cloth  and  clean  papers  at  hand  to  in- 
sure neat  work.  When  through  throw  the  glue  sticks 
into  the  waste  basket  and  be  sure  and  put  the  cap  on 
the  glue  can. 

STAIN.  The  stain  is  furnished  i/2  P*-  bottles  in 
brown,  green  and  red.  The  staining  should  also  be  done 

45 


at  one  table.  It  is  applied  with  a  brush  and  put  on 
as  sparingly  as  possible.  The  water  colors  may  be  used 
when  other  effects  are  desired. 

Staining  should  only  be  done  by  the  capable  pupils 
who  have  been  first  shown  how  to  do  it. 

WAX.  Floor  wax  in  a/4  lb.  cans  is  furnished.  Apply 
with  a  soft  rag  and  then  rub  with  a  dry  one.  The  more 
you  rub  the  better  the  gloss.  Paraffin  used  in  the  house- 
hold makes  a  good  gloss  rubbed  on  in  the  same  way. 

PATTERNS.  Most  of  the  problems  require  the  use 
of  patterns  or  templates  in  marking  or  laying  out  the 
figures  on  the  boards.  These  patterns  are  made  by  trac- 
ing onto  light  paper  the  drawings  given  on  the  blue 
prints.  Lay  the  paper  over  the  drawing  to  be  copied, 
and  hold  on  the  window  glass  so  the  light  will  shine 
through  and  the  white  lines  of  the  blueprint  can  easily 
be  followed  with  the  pencil.  Copying  or  carbon  paper 
may  also  be  used  to  transfer  the  drawings.  The  patterns 
are  to  be  made  from  heavy  manila  paper  or  "tag  board." 
Having  cut  out  one  with  the  scissors,  duplicates,  one  for 
each  two  pupils,  should  be  made  from  this  one.  This  may 
be  done  by  the  teacher,  by  older  pupils,  or  by  the  pupils 
of  the  upper  grade. 

HOME  WORK.  P]ncourage  home  work.  Egg  crates, 
fruit  and  cigar  boxes  make  good  material  for  this  work. 
A  few  home  projects  are  suggested,  selected  from  among 
the  many  children  have  worked  out  in  other  years;  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  automobiles  and  delivery  trucks,  delivery 
wagons  for  groceries,  meat,  and  milk,  a  coupe,  a  jinricksha, 
a  trolley  car,  doll  house  and  furniture,  match  safes,  mail 
boxes,  hook  and  ladder  wagon,  Eskimo  sled,  double 
bob  sled,  a  circus  procession,  Santa  Glaus,  his  sleigh  and 
reindeer. 

Such  home  work  brought  to  school  and  exhibited 
and  described  by  the  maker,  is  a  fruitful  stimulus  to  the 
others. 


46 


ANIMALS  IN  OUTLINE. 

(Plate  I.) 

1.  THE  BEAR.     Have  tagboard  patterns  of  the  bear 
made  by  the  teacher  or  some  capable  child.     Show  how 
the  pattern  is  laid  on  the  wood,  considering  strength  of 
grain   and  economy   of   material.      Caution   the   children 
to  hold  saws  correctly  at  right  angles  to  the  board.     Call 
attention  to  the  teeth  of  the  saw,  hoAv  the  vertical  move- 
ment does  the  sawing  and  no  pushing  forward  is  nece_>- 
sary.     After  sawing  out   the  shape  it  should  be  nicely 
sandpapered,  using  a  small  piece  of  sand  paper  over  a 
block. 

2.  OTHER  ANIMALS.     Every  one  in  the  class  should 
make  at  least  one  selection  from  these  other  animals  and 
saw  them  out  in  the  same  way  as  the  bear.     The  more 
capable  pupils  may  saw  out  two  or  more. 

3.  THE  STAND.     Have  the  class  make  a  stand  for  the 
bear,  dictating  the  measurements  as  given  on  Plate  I.  Those 
finishing  may  devise  different  stands  to  suit  animals  made, 
using  scraps  of  wood. 

THE  BALANCING  HORSE. 

(Plate  I.) 

4.  THE  BALANCING  HORSE.     PLATE  I.     The  blue 
print  gives  the  most  economical  lay-out  for  a  full  board. 
Saw  out  the  parts  and  sand  paper.     The  two  legs  are 
fastened  to  -the  body  with  two  brads  and  a  drop  of  glue. 
The  hole  for  the  wire  is  made  with  the  small  awl  and 
the  wire  inserted  with  a  little  glue.     A  small  stone  with 
loop  of  string  glued  to  it  forms  the  balancing  weight. 
If  the  horse  does  not  balance,  try  adjusting  the  curve 
in  the  wire,  bending  it  a  little  more  or  less  as  needed  to 
bring  the  weight  to  correct  position. 

OPTIONAL  PROBLEMS.  Pupils  finishing  the  bal- 
ancing horse  before  the  majority  of  the  class  may  select 
from  the  following. 

4  a.     HEART  PUZZLE,  PLATE  II.  After  sawing  out  the 
two  hearts,  draw  the  circles  for  the  holes,  using  compass. 

47 


The  wheel  flanges  (A)  are  made  first  by  tacking  two 
pieces  together  (B)  with  2  brads,  then  sawing  them  out 
at  one  time.  The  center  piece  for  the  wheel  is  then  sawed 
out  ( C ) .  Bore  holes  through  the  center  of  the  flanges  before 
separating  the  pieces;  also  through  the  center  piece  with 
the  large  awl.  The  edges  of  the  flanges  are  sand-papered 
rounding  as  shown.  When  finished  slip  the  three  pieces 
on  a  piece  of  iron  wire  2"  long  with  one  bent  over,  and 
tack  them  firmly  together,  putting  a  little  glue  between 
the  parts.  The  frame  is  now  made  as  shown.  The  sides 
(D)  are  placed  together  and  the  hole  bored  through  both 
at  once  in  the  center.  Put  the  four  1/2"  brads  in  each 
piece  and  then  fasten  on  the  cross  pieces  (E).  The  frame 
is  now  tied  around  with  heavy  string  as  shown,  with  a 
slip  loop  at  the  bottom.  Put  in  the  pulley,  insert  the 
wire  and  bend  over  the  other  end  with  the  pliers,  and  the 
Pulley  Block  is  done. 

WEATHER  VANES.    Plate  III. 

These  are  made  from  patterns.  The  children  may 
use  other  suitable  patterns.  If  larger  ones  are  desired 
they  can  get  pieces  of  fruit  boxes  from  the  grocery  to 
make  them  of.  To  balance  the  figure,  lay  it  flat  across 
the  edge  of  a  ruler  and  mark  the  point  where  it  balances. 
Drive  in  a  pin  on  the  edge  at  this  point  and  snip  off  the 
head  with  the  pliers.  The  pin  can  then  be  pushed  into 
a  standard  made  for  it  and  by  working  it  a  little  the  figure 
will  easily  whirl  around  on  the  standard. 


48 


To  saw  out  the  holes,  bore  holes  with  the  large  awl  and 
put  the  saw  through,  then  fasten  the  saw  in  the  frame 
again. 

PICTURE  FRAMES,  PLATE  II.  This  problem  may 
be  somewhat  difficult  for  a  4th  B,  but  can  be  well  worked 
out  by  the  more  capable  classes. 

PATTERNS.  First  make  a  paper  pattern  and  then 
trace  on  the  board. 

TO  SAW.  To  saw  out  the  inside,  bore  a  hole  with  the 
large  awl  and  put  the  saw  through  and  then  fasten  the 
saw  in  the  frame  again,  but  in  the  slots  on  the  side  of  the 
frame  so  that  the  saw  will  saw  sideways. 

THE  BACK.  The  back  is  shown  in  the  sketch.  (Make 
out  of  opening  piece.)  The  three  pieces  for  the  sides 
and  bottom  are  about  y±"  wide  and  3y2"  long.  Split  them 
out  with  a  knife,  scoring  deeply  with  the  point  drawn 
against  the  brass  edge  ruler.  These  are  glued  on  the 
back  of  the  frame.  The  piece  2"x3y2"  is  then  tacked  on 
as  shown.  The  leg  is  put  on  if  the  frame  is  intended  to 
stand  up.  It  is  hinged  on  with  a  piece  of  leather,  an  old 
glove  or  shoe  top,  or  a  piece  of  cloth,  glued  on. 

DESIGNS.  Only  the  most  capable  should  attempt 
the  designs.  They  are  drawn  in  lead  pencil,  and  when  true 
and  correct  should  be  lined  in  as  heavy  as  possible. 

STAIN.  Wood  dyes  are  furnished  in  different  tones 
of  brown,  green  and  red.  All  staining  should  be  done 
at  one  table  in  the  room.  Use  a  small  brush  in  applying 
the  stain  and  then  rub  off  any  surplus  with  a  cloth. 

FINISH.  Floor  wax,  1/4  Ib.  can,  will  do  for  a  large 
number  of  frames.  Apply  with  a  soft  rag,  and  then  rub 
with  a  dry  one.  The  more  you  rub  the  softer  and  prettier 
the  gloss. 

SUPPLIES.  %  ?*•  bottle  wood  stain,  114  Ib.  can 
floor  wax. 

PULLEY.  Plate  III. 

No  "lay-out"  is  given.  The  pulley  may  be  made  from 
scraps  of  wood  left  from  other  problems.  The  two  views 
and  the  sketch  show  the  pulley  complete. 

49 


HORSE  AND  CART. 

(Plate  IV.) 

5.  THE  HORSE  AND  CART.  Plate  IV.  Patterns  for 
the  horse  only.  The  wheels  are  drawn  with  the  compass. 

COMPASS.  Show  how  to  use  the  pencil  compass, 
measuring  off  the  radius  1%"  on  the  board  in  pencil  marks 
and  adjusting  the  compass  to  these  marks. 

DRAWING.  The  "lay-out"  illustrated  one  way  of 
economically  using  a  stock  size  board.  Two  children  may 
thus  work  together  on  one  board.  The  teacher  should 
draw  on  the  blackboard  very  large  and  clearly,  if  roughly, 
this  "lay-out,"  explaining  how  to  begin  and  where  and  what 
dimensions  to  use. 

In  a  similar  manner  on  the  blackboard  explain  how 
the  cart  and  shafts  are  put  together,  interpreting  the 
working  drawing  of  the  blue  print. 

A  good  plan  for  the  children  is  to  make  a  working 
drawing  of  the  body  of  the  wagon,  showing  the  placing  of 
the  shafts  and  wheels. 

CONSTRUCTION.  The  squares  containing  the  wheels 
should  be  cut  out,  tacked  together  with  a  couple  of  brads 
and  the  two  wheels  sawed  out  at  the  same  time.  Bore 
a  hole  through  the  center  with  the  small  awl.  Saw  out 
the  body  piece.  Draw  lines  for  placing  the  shafts.  Draw 
lines  for  placing  the  wheels,  the  children  working  from 
their  own  drawings  and  from  the  blackboard.  In  draw- 
ing the  lines  for  placing  the  shafts,  have  the  straight 
edge  next  the  horse,  keep  the  ends  to  the  line,  and  try 
the  horse  between  the  shafts  before  fastening.  Nail  the 
shafts  with  2  brads,  try  the  horse  again  and  then  nail 
the  last  two  brads.  The  wheels  are  fastened  to  the  shaft 
with  furniture  nails.  The  horse  may  not  need  to  be  fas- 
tened to  the  shafts  if  held  tightly,  but  if  necessary,  use 
the  brads  as  they  will  not  be  so  apt  to  split  as  the  furniture 
nails. 

SANDPAPER  all  parts  nice  and  clean  before  put- 
ting together.  Always  have  the  child  use  a  little  Hock 
with  sandpaper  folded  around  it,  and  not  use  his  fingers. 

50 


5  a.  OPTIONALS.  Plates  IV.  and  V.  The  rapid  work- 
ers may  attempt  a  four  wheeled  cart  with  a  pair  of 
mules  and  string  for  harness.  The  two  wheeled  cart  may 
be  used  as  a  match  box  as  shown.  A  wheelbarrow  is  also 
a  good  problem.  The  very  proficient  may  make  the  con- 
veyer, windwheel,  stern  paddle  boat  or  paper  knives. 

WIND  WHEEL.    Plate  V. 

PATTERNS  may  be  used  for  the  blades  and  tail,  as 
shown  full  size  on  the  plate. 

DRAWING.  Lay  out  the  parts  directly  as  in  the  "Lay- 
out," 

CONSTRUCTION.  After  all  the  parts  are  sawed 
out  and  nicely  sandpapered,  nail  the  blades  upon  the 
half  spool  as  shown.  The  spool  should  be  first  marked  in 
four  equal  spaces  to  locate  the  places  for  the  blades. 

Slip  the  wrheel  on  the  tail  piece  and  balance  over  the 
finger  on  the  tail  piece  and  then  cut  off  the  head  with  the 
cutting  pliers.  Make  a  hole  in  the  end  of  the  upright 
standard  with  a  brad  into  which  the  pivot  will  go.  Put 
the  wheel  on  and  hold  in  place  with  a  brad,  and  the  Wind 
Wheel  is  complete.  It  may  be  painted  or  stained. 

A  STERN-PADDLE  BOAT.     Plate  V. 

PATTERNS  are  not  needed. 

DRAWING.  With  a  board  3"x8",  measure  off  the 
distance  and  mark  the  lines  at  the  stern  where  the  pad- 
dle is  to  go.  Set  the  compass  to  3"  and  draw  the  two  arcs 
that  form  the  prow  of  the  boat.  Next  lay  out  a  piece 
Ii/^"x4"  long  for  the  four  paddle  blades. 

CONSTRUCTION.  Saw  out  the  boat  part  and  the 
four  blades  of  the  paddles,  sandpapering  them  nicely. 
Next  make  the  paddle  wheel.  Use  %"  or  i/2"  brads,  nail- 
ing the  parts  together  as  shown  in  the  sketches  I.,  II.  and 
III.  Now  slip  a  rubber  band  over  the  wheel  and  in  the 
two  notches  at  the  stern  of  the  boat,  and  the  Stern  Paddle 
Boat  is  done. 

A  spool  may  be  nailed  in  the  Center  for  a  smoke  fun- 

51 


nel,  or  an  ingenious  youngster  may  put  on  a  cabin,  too. 
To  make  the  boat  go  forward  wind  up  the  paddle 
wheel  in  the  opposite  direction  and  place  in  the  water. 
The  boat  may  be  painted  or  stained. 


52 


6.    FEEDING  CHICKENS. 

(Plate  VI.) 

PATTERNS  are  required  for  the  body  and  legs.  The 
actual  size  is  given  in  the  "Lay-out,"  and  may  be  traced 
from  the  blue  print  with  thin  piece  of  writing  paper,  and 
then  transferred  to  tagboard. 

DRAWING.  The  dish  is  drawn  with  the  compass, 
the  straight  pieces  with  rule  and  pencil  from  measure- 
ments given. 

CONSTRUCTION.  The  "Lay-out"  gives  the  arrange- 
ment for  one-half  board  with  the  grain  running  the  six- 
inch  way.  The  strips  may  be  cut  off  with  the  knife  point 
against  the  brass-edged  ruler,  cutting  partly  through,  then 
splitting  them  off.  In  putting  together,  first  fasten 
legs  to  body  with  %"  brads  and  a  drop  of  glue; 
second,  fasten  piece  (A)  to  sticks  (B)  with  %"  brads, 
then  put  on  the  dish  (C) ;  third,  fasten  the  chicken  in 
place,  tacking  in  the  lower  brad  first,  then  tip  the  chicken 
forward  until  the  bill  touches  the  dish  and  put  in  the 
second  brad. 

SELECTED  PROBLEMS  (PLATE  VI.). 

Each  child  is  now  to  choose  either  of  the  problems  giv- 
en— the  Wood  Choppers  or  Wrestlers.  They  involve  the 
same  principles  already  given.  The  Wood  Choppers  are  put 
together  in  same  manner  as  the  Chicken.  Use  glue  to 
hold  the  axe  between  the  two  arms.  The  arms  and  legs 
are  doubled  one  on  each  side.  In  attaching  to  sticks, 
place  one  finger  upright  and  the  other  with  his  axe  on  the 
block. 

The  Wrestlers  are  held  together  with  string  at  the 
joints,  knotted  closely  to  the  figure.  To  work  them,  pass 
a  black  thread  2  yards  long  through  the  two  holes  in  the 
arms.  By  jerking  on  the  thread  with  the  other  end  fas- 
tened to  a  chair  leg,  the  figures  will  wrestle. 

MATERIALS.  Scrap  pieces  can  be  used  for  these 
problems. 

53 


8.    THE  DINKEY  BIRD. 

(Plate  VII.) 

PATTERNS  are  required  for  the  head,  tail  and  the 
perch  only.  The  "Lay-out"  gives  these  full  sizes  on 
the  Plate. 

DRAWING.  The  body,  eliptical  in  form,  is  to  be 
drawn  with  a  compass  by  every  child  on  a  piece  of  draw- 
ing papek'  and  then  cut  out  for  a  pattern  for  his  own 
use. 

Firsv  draw  the  two  squares  IVs"  on  a  side  as  shown 
by  the  dotted  lines.  This  may  be  done  by  folding  the 
paper  to  get  the  right  angles.  Draw  the  diagonals.  With 
the  compass  and  the  points  marked  1,  '2,  3,  and  4,  re- 
spectively as  centers,  draw  the  arcs,  forming  the  mechan- 
ical ellipse.  For  example,  with  center  (1)  and  the  long 
diagonal  as  a  radius  draw  the  upper  large  arc,  then  us- 
ing (2)  as  a  center  and  the  half  diagonal  as  radius,  con- 
tinue the  arc  across  the  end  and  so  on. 

The  "Leg"  of  the  bird  is  a  strip  S1/^"  long  and  y±"  • 
wide,  2'  of  it  tapering  to  a  blunt  point  about  Ys"  across. 

CONSTRUCTION.  All  parts  to  be  finished  care- 
fully. Fasten  the  leg  to  body  with  a  drop  of  glue  and 
brads.  The  head  and  tail  are  to  have  holes  made  in 
them  about  y2"  from  the  lower  ends,  for  the  brads  upon 
which  they  swing.  Make  these  holes  with  a  larger  nail, 
so  the  nole  will  be  slightly  larger  than  the  brad  and  thus 
permit  the  head  and  tail  to  work  up  and  down  freely. 

Drive  into  the  ends  of  the  head  and  tail  a  small 
brad  as  shown  in  the  picture,  to  which  the  string  is  to 
be  fastened.  They  may  now  be  fastened  in  place  on  the 
body.  The  string  60"  long,  or  strong  black  thread,  is 
tied  one  end  to  the  tail  and  the  other  to  the  head.  Set 
the  bird  on  the  edge  of  the  table  on  his  perch,  draAv  the 
strings  down  until  the  head  and  tail  balance,  then  tie  a 
knot  a  few  inches  from  the  bottom,  keeping  the  two 
strands  equal,  the  stone  is  next  tied  to  the  loop  below 
this  knot. 

The  stone  should  not  be  larger  than  will  balance  the 
head  and  tail,  a  piece  of  string  should  be  fastened  in  place 

54 


about  the  stone  with  a  drop  of  glue. 

PAINTING.  The  bird  and  his  perch  may  be  painted 
with  water  colors  or  paint. 

8  a.  OPTIONALS. 

The  rapid  workers  of  the  class  may  attempt  the  op- 
tionals  after  finishing  the  bird. 

THE  ATHLETE.  Patterns  are  given  full  size  for  all 
the  parts.  The  sticks  and  cross  bar  to  be  cut  out  accord- 
ing to  the  dimensions  given. 

CONSTRUCTION.  Scrap  pieces  left  from  other 
work  should  be  used  for  the  figure.  Before  sawing  out, 
bore  all  holes  with  the  small  awl  to  prevent  accidents  after 
sawing. 

The  parts  are  held  together  with  string  knotted  close. 
Fine  wire  may  be  used.  The  parts  should  be  very  free 
to  work  properly. 

To  string  up  the  arms  to  the  frame  follow  the  dia- 
gram. 

The  frame  is  made  with  the  sides  placed  edgewise  for 
strength.  A  brad  in  either  end  of  the  cross  piece  will  hold 
it  in  place.  ij  K- 


55 


TOY  FURNITURE. 
(Plate  VIII.) 

PATTERNS.  Patterns  are  not  needed  except  in  the 
case  of  curved  forms.  Other  parts  should  be  measured. 
Consider  with  the  class  the  proportions  of  real  furniture 
and  reduce  in  size.  Different  pieces  may  be  made  by  dif- 
ferent children.  Only  a  few  are  suggested  on  Plate  VIII. 
By  keeping  to  simple  lines,  many  others  may  be 
planned. 

MEASUREMENT.  By  the  time  these  problems  are 
taken  up  the  children  should  be  held  to  accurate  measure- 
ment and  sawing. 

FINISH.  The  pieces  for  furniture  should  be  well 
polished,  but  no  rounding  of  edges  should  be  allowed,  as 
well  fitted  joints  are  necessary.  The  furniture  may  be 
stained  with  wood  stain  in  the  same  way  as  the  picture 
frames. 

9  a.     OPTIONALS  BIRD  HOUSES.     Plate  IX. 

These  houses,  while  simple  in  form,  are  somewhat 
difficult  to  make,  and  therefore  should  be  optional  work 
to  be  made  by  those  pupils  of  especial  ability  in  this 
work.  Encourage  such  ones  to  do  as  much  of  this  work 
out  of  school  as  possible  and  when  finished  bring  them  in  to 
let  the  other  children  see  what  they  have  done. 

FIRST  BIRD  HOUSE. 

DRAWING.  Lay  out  the  equilateral  triangles  for 
the  ends  at  one  end  of  the  board.  Do  this  with  the  com- 
pass, set  to  5",  as  shown  in  the  sketch.  Draw  the  circle 
for  the  door.  On  another  board  5"  wide  for  the  bottom 
of  the  house  measure  off  10"  for  its  length  and  draw  a 
semi-circle  for  the  end  with  the  compass  set  to  2y2".  Draw 
lines  across  the  bottom  where  the  ends  are  to  be 
nailed  on. 

CONSTRUCTION.  Tack  the  two  boards  for  the  sides 
of  the  house  together  and  cut  off  the  triangles  as  shown 
in  the  sketch.  The  parts  left  make  the  sides  or  roof  of 

56 


the  house.    Finish  the  ends  and  cut  the  hole  in  one  of  them 
for  the  door. 

Next  saw  the  end  of  the  bottom  board  round.  To 
fasten  together  nail  (%"  brads),  the  two  ends  on  the  bot- 
tom board.  To  do  this,  start  the  brads  through  the  board 
and  they  will  just  stick  through  and  show  where  to  place 
the  ends.  Do  the  same  with  the  other  two  boards,  forming 
the  roof,  first  marking  a  line  on  them  where  the  nails  are 
to  be  driven  through.  When  finished,  stain  with  any  dark 
color. 

THATCHED  BIRD  HOUSE. 

DRAWING.  The  ends  for  this  house  are  two  isos- 
celes triangles,  5"  on  the  base  and  5y2"  on  the  sides.  Use 
the  compass  to  lay  it  out  on  any  piece  of  board  large 
enough.  The  bottom  is  a  board  5"x9"  with  two  front  cor- 
ners rounded  a  little.  Draw  lines  where  the  ends  are  to  be 
placed. 

CONSTRUCTION.  The  4"  strips  for  the  roof  are 
about  %"  wide  and  10"  long.  First  fasten  the  ends  to 
the  bottom  as  in  the  first  house;  then  nail  on  the  strips 
about  an  inch  from  the  top,  and  the  bottom  of  the  ends 
as  shown  and  the  house  is  ready  for  the  thatch.  Tie  a 
piece  of  string  of  a  length  easy  to  handle  (we  can  add 
to  it  when  needed)  at  the  end  of  the  top  slat.  Take  a 
small  bundle  of  the  thatch  six  or  eight  strands  of  the 
tilo,  or  as  large  a  bundle  of  raffia  or  straw  and  fasten 
under  the  string  as  shown.  Keep  the  top  as  even  as 
possible.  When  the  side*?s  complete,  tie  the  second  string 
on  the  lower  slat  at  each  end  as  tight  as  possible.  Do 
the  other  side  the  same  way.  If  the  wooden  parts  are 
to  be  stained,  it  would  better  be  done  before  thatching. 

SHINGLE  BIRD  HOUSE. 

This  may  be  made  of  old  shingles  and  of  about  this 
size.  Birds  are  not  critical  of  workmanship,  and  this 
house  is  a  good  one  for  the  boy  and  girl  to  make  at  home 
out  of  old  material.  If  made  tall  and  narrow,  it  will 
likely  attract  birds  which  usually  build  in  hollow 
trees. 

57 


Baron  von  Berlepsch,  of  Siebaeh,  Germany,  has  in- 
vented a  machine  for  boring  nesting  holes  in  tree  sections, 
and  he  has  thus  been  very  successful  in  attracting  birds  to 
his  great  estate. 

The  State  Entomologist  of  Illinois  estimates  the 
value  of  the  birds  to  that  state  this  year,  1911,  to  be 
176,000,000. 


58 


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FIFTH  GRADE.  CARDBOARD  CONSTRUCTION. 
EQUIPMENT  AND  SUPPLIES. 

Material.                                       Size  Amount 

Equipment  per  chest 

1  chest  per  bldg.,  1  set  Blue  Print  plates  per  room. 

Compasses,  Eagle No.  576-5"  48 

Compass  Blackboard 1 

Punches,  Paragon %"  6-12 

Rulers,  Latshaw '  12"  48 

Scissors,  pointed 5^"  48 

Triangles,  wood 45"  48 

Paste  Brushes i/2"  24 

Zinc  Pieces 7"x9"  24 

Knife  Sharpeners  12 

Knives   24 

Supplies  Amount 

Per  Room 

Pencils,  regular 4^2  doz. 

Tagboard     12"xl8"  50  sh. 

(To  be  used  for    patterns 
for  4th  and  5th  grades) 
Cover  Paper  (Assorted  colors — 

50  Ib 12i/2"x20"  200  sh. 

Cover  Paper  (Assorted  colors — 

30  Ib.  for  candy  box) 12y2"x20"  50  sh. 

Cover    Paper     (Brown — 30  Ib. 

for  book  covers) 5"x8  1-3"  200  sh. 

Cream     Paper      (For  filler  of 

book) Il"x28"  400  sh. 

Squared  Paper 9"xl2"  150  sh. 

Strawboard  (For  pads) 4"x4"  60 

Strawboard  (Lined,  light  weight 

for  candy  boxes 13"xl9"  60  sh. 

Kraft  Paper  for  bottom  of  desk 

bloter 12i/2"x20"  60  sh. 

Strawboard     (lined    —    heavy 

weight)   Ili/2"xl9"  150  sh. 

Strawboard     (lined    —    heavy 

weight  for  book  covers) 5%"x7%"  100  sh- 

Black  cardboard  (for  shades)-     15"x20"  20  sh. 

60 


Black  cardboard  (for  lanterns)  10"x20"  50  sh. 

Book  Binding  Cloth  (brown  and 

green,  1  yd.  wide) 38"  of  each  color 

Crochet  Cotton  (for  sewing 

books)    1  ball 


61 


GENERAL  SUGGESTIONS. 

In  all  buildings  where  there  is  a  manual  training  cen- 
ter for  boys  and  girls,  the  fifth  grades  in  that  building  may 
use  the  center  if  not  in  use  by  the  regular  classes.  The 
work  can  be  done  better  and  more  easily  in  the  center  than 
in  the  regular  school  room.  It  is  advisable  to  have  a  gen- 
eral pasting  and  cutting  table  where  large  surfaces  may  be 
pasted  and  strawboard  cut  with  the  knife.  Have  table 
covered  with  several  sheets  of  newspaper.  As  each  sheet 
is  soiled  it  should  be  folded  up  and  discarded  and  the  work 
continued  on  the  clean  sheet  beneath. 

CUTTING.  Short  cuts  in  strawboard  may  be  made 
with  the  shears,  but  where  there  are  long  lines  to  cut  use 
the  knife,  holding  it  against  the  metal  edge  of  the  ruler. 
Keep  knives  sharp  by  whetting  a  few  times  on  knife  sharp- 
ener. This  is  a  small  block  of  wood  on  which  is  glued  a 
strip  of  fine  sand  paper.  Fresh  sandpaper  should  be  glued 
on  when  worn  out.  It  is  the  best  sharpener  for  a  knife  to 
cut  paper.  The  zinc  sheet  is  necessary  on  which  to  lay 
strawboard  when  cutting  with  a  knife  to  insure  a  clean 
cut  edge.  It  is  used  by  bookbinders  for  this  purpose. 

PASTING.  The  school  paste  thinned  to  the  consist- 
ency of  thick  cream  works  well  for  small  surfaces  such  as 
the  corner  pieces  on  boxes,  but  for  all  larger  surfaces  use 
the  cooked  flour  paste  which  the  child  or  teacher  may  make 
at  home. 

EECIPE.  1  cup  flour,  1  cup  cold  water.  Mix  flour 
and  water  thoroughly  and  pour  mixture  into  three  cups 
of  boiling  water.  Boil  five  minutes  or  until  clear.  This 
will  keep  about  1  week.  A  teaspoon ful  of  powdered  alum 
will  make  it  keep  longer. 

BRUSHES.  The  paste  should  be  applied  to  large  sur- 
faces with  the  1  inch  flat  bristle  brushes.  These  should 
always  be  washed  and  dryed  after  using. 

CLOTH.  A  small  piece  of  clean  white  cloth  will  be 
found  useful  in  keeping  the  fingers  free  from  paste. 

SCORING  is  cutting  the  outside  layer  of  the  straw- 
board  so  that  it  will  bend  nicely,  but  not  break.  It  should 
be  done  with  the  knife  held  against  the  metal  edge  of  ruler 
Scoring  is  always  done  on  the  outside  of  any  fold. 

62 


NOTE  carefully  directions  as  to  correct  methods  of 
turning  edges  and  corners,  mitering  corners,  etc.,  in  the 
making  of  the  tray  as  these  will  apply  to  subsequent  mod- 
els. 


63 


1.    DICTATION  LESSONS. 

DICTATION  LESSONS.  The  use  of  ruler,  triangle 
and  pencil.  Draw  a  six  inch  square  in  the  center  of  a 
9x12  sheet  of  drawing  paper.  If  the  triangles  are  not  large 
enough  use  a  5"  square.  To  do  this  first  draw  horizontal 
base  line  with  the  ruler,  at  the  correct  distance  from 
the  edge  of.  the  sheet.  Erect  perpendiculars  six  inch  apart 
on  this  line  by  holding  the  triangle  against  the  rule.  Meas- 
ure off  6"  on  these  perpendiculars  and  correct  and  the 
square  is  complete.  Insist  on  this  use  of  the  triangle  and 
the  ruler  to  form  right  angles. 

Next  lay  off  y2"  points  on  the  bottom  and  left  hand 
side  of  the  square  only  and  with  triangle  against  the  ruler 
with  the  ruler  parellel  to  the  side  marked,  erect  perpendic- 
ulars at  each  y2"  point  through  the  opposite  side.  Turn 
the  paper  14  about  and  repeat  for  the  second  side  making 
y2"  squares. 

Light  Pencil  Lines  must  be  insisted  upon.  With 
the  ruler  and  pencil  certain  designated  lines  of  these  small 
squares  may  be  lined  in  forming  a  design  as  illustrated  in 
Plate  I,  (A)  V  Grade.  The  above  should  take  two  les- 
sons. INSIST  upon  right  method  and  accurate  measure- 
ments and  neat  lines. 

2.    DESK  BLOTTER. 

(Plate  I.) 

MATERIALS.  Strawboard  (lined  heavyweight) 
Ili/2"xl9".  Cover  Paper  12V2"x20"  (Brown  Kraft)  for  bot- 
tom. Cover  Paper  for  corners,  each  S^xS1/^'  to  be  cut 
from  the  large  sheets  12i^"x20". 

PASTING.  Lay  strawboard  Il^"xl9"  on  cover  pap- 
er 12i/2"x20"  white  side  up  leaving  y2"  margin.  Spread 
paste  on  margin  and  fold  over  the  strawboard  and  metre 
corners  as  shown  in  Plate  II  (F.  I.)  and  Plate  VI  (H.) 
and  paste. 

THE  CORNER.  Draw  pattern  on  manilla  paper. 
Cut  and  fold.  Make  four  corners  in  cover  paper  and  paste. 
Be  earful  in  pasting  the  corners,  not  to  overlap  the  flaps, 

64 


throwing  the  corner  out  of  square. 

DESIGN.  This  design  should  be  worked  out  and  ap- 
plied during  the  drawing  period.  See  that  the  design  is 
accurately  placed  in  the  center  of  the  corner  with  even 
margins.  Consider  the  color  of  blotter  to  be  used  and  tho 
cover  paper  when  planning  the  color  in  the  corner  design. 
Average  time  allowed — four  lessons. 

3.  BOX  MAKING. 

(Plates  II.  &  III.) 

The  Class  Exercise  is  the  making  of  a  pencil  tray.  This 
is  followed  by  the  problem  of  the  candy  box. 

THE  TRAY.  Materials— Light  weight  strawboard 
10"x4".  Tinted  folding  paper  9x12  (First  Grade  Sup- 
plies), Manila  paper  for  strengthening  corners,  %"  strips 
(First  Grade  Supplies). 

DRAWING  AND  CUTTING.  One  sheet  of  Iiy2"xl9" 
strawboard  will  cut  3  trays  and  leave  a  piece  suitable  for 
the  cover  and  bottom  of  the  candy  box,  See  "Lay  Out." 
Plate  II  C.  Draw  lay  out  (Plate  II  A)  on  the  brown  side  of 
the  strawboard,  cut  out  corners  and  score  on  folding  lines. 
Cut  small  pieces  from  the  three  manila  strips  a  little  short- 
er than  the  depth  of  the  box  for  pasting  over  corners. 

Cut  three  pieces  of  tinted  folding  paper  2"  wide  11" 
long.  These  overlapped  will  cover  the  sides  of  the  tray. 
Measure  and  cut  a  piece  for  the  outside  of  the  bottom  of 
the  tray  (iy2"x7y2"). 

PASTING.  Paste  corners  as  at  (Plate  II  C.)  Cover 
tinted  folding  paper  strip  with  paste.  Paste  strip  around 
tray  as  in  (Plate  II  E)  laying  the  tray  on  the  wet  strip, 
keeping  even  margins  at  top  and  bottom  of  tray.  Be  care- 
ful to  smooth  paper  down  in  close  contact.  First  fold  over 
the  margin  at  the  bottom  and  cut  corners  off  a  little  as  in 
(Plate  II  F.  1) .  Before  pasting  over  the  margin  at  the  top, 
cut  corners  as  at  (Plate  II  E.  2.)  Paste  tinted  folding 
paper  ly/'xT1/^"  on  bottom  leaving  a  margin  14"  all  around. 

4.  CANDY  BOX. 
MATERIALS.     Light   weight  lined  strawboard  for 

65 


foundation,  light  weight  cover  paper  for  covering.  Have 
some  old  candy  boxes  brought  in  with  which  to  illustrate 
ways  of  construction. 

FOUNDATION.  Measure  on  the  brown  side  and  cut 
out  the  pieces  of  strawboard  needed  for  cover  and  box.  The 
cover  should  be  3-16"  larger  than  the  bottom  of  box  so  that 
it  will  fit  easily  over  the  box  even  when  covered.  (Plate  III 
A  &  B). 

COVERING.  The  box  part  is  covered  with  cover 
paper  as  illustrated  in  blue  print  (Plate  III  B).  Draw 
lay  out,  fit  over  the  box  and  laying  it  out  flat  on  piece  of 
newspaper,  cover  with  paste  and  paste  on  a  box.  The  cover 
of  box  is  covered  differently.  Draw  and  cut  as  in  lay  out 
on  the  blue  print  (Plate  III  C).  Fold  carefully  over  box 
top  (Plate  II  D) .  Kemove  and  put  paste  only  on  the  edges 
that  fold  inside. 

DESIGN.  The  drawing  supervisor  has  given  a  sheet 
of  suggestive  designs  for  the  cover  of  box,  and  others  are 
given  in  the  blue  print  (Plate  III).  Any  decoration  should 
first  be  tried  out  on  a  piece  of  cover  paper  the  size  of  the 
top  of  the  box,  and  then  may  be  worked  out  directly  on  the 
finished  box. 

SUPPLEMENTARY.  Other  larger  candy  boxes  may 
be  made  of  the  same  or  different  proportions.  The  one  giv- 
en is  the  regulation  size  for  a  half  pound  box.  A  square 
pound  box  may  be  made  doubling  the  width  making  it 
about  5  14"  wide.  The  regulation  pound  box  is  1  %"x3x 
7%".  Some  of  the  children  have  made  very  pretty  ones  by 
covering  with  the  wrapping  paper  sold  in  the  stores  at 
Christmas  time  or  with  the  glazed  papers  which  can  be 
bought  at  any  time. 


66 


5.     SHADES. 

(Plate  IV.) 

MATERIALS.  Light  weight  black  cardboard  15"x20" 
for  the  base,  cover  paper  for  the  design,  colored  tissue  or 
Japanese  papers  for  backing  designs  that  cover  openings 
of  the  shade,  the  latter  furnished  by  the  children. 

DRAWING.  Require  an  accurate  drawing  from  every 
pupil  of  the  shade  base,  made  on  drawing  paper  first.  Ex- 
plain to  the  class  how  to  do  this  on  the  blackboard.  A 
semi-circle  is  the  base  of  the  construction,  divided  into  four 
parts.  Add  the  y2"  flap.  Give  a  drill  in  the  use  of  the.  com- 
pass and  in  dividing  circles  into  halves,  quarters,  sixths, 
and  eights.  , 

The  dotted  line  design  at  the  outer  edge  shows  how 
each  of  the  four  edges  may  be  cut  by  the  more  capable- 
pupils. 

DESIGN.  These  are  worked  out  in  the  drawing  les- 
sons. Keep  them  simple,  with  plenty  of  space  for  the  light 
to  shine  through.  Take  care  that  the  margin  of  y2"  around 
the  design  is  kept  even. 

CONSTRUCTION.  After  transferring  design  to  the 
gray  side  of  the  black  card  board,  cut  out  the  opening? 
with  the  point  of  a  knife  keeping  the  cardboard  on  the  zinc 
sheet.  Keep  the  point  sharp  by  frequent  whetting.  Score 
on  the  dotted  lines  on  the  black  side  and  fold  over  edge  of 
ruler.  Paste  the  tissue  paper  to  the  under  side  in  separate 
pieces  for  each  of  the  four  parts.  Join  the  outer  edges  and 
paste  together. 

5  a.  SUPPLEMENTARY.  Other  shades  may  be  made  by 
the  most  capable  children,  designs  for  which  may  be  origin- 
al or  variations  taken  from  those  that  have  appeared  in  the 
magazines  from  time  to  time,  notably  the  Ladies  Home 
Journal  and  Good  House  Keeping  for  1909-1911. 

A  GROUP  PROBLEM.  This  six  or  eight  sided  drop 
light  shade  should  be  made  by  a  number  of  the  rapid  or 
very  capable  pupils  working  as  a  group. 

MATERIALS.  Use  heavy  strawboard,  other  papers 
the  same. 

67 


DRAWING  to  be  made  at  once  on  the  strawboard. 

DESIGN.  If  desired  the  design,  to  be  previously 
worked  out,  may  be  cut  directly  in  the  strawboard  and  the 
colored  tissue  paper  then  pasted  on  the  inside  of  the  shade. 
Otherwise  cut  out  openings  and  paste  on  design  cut  from 
cover  paper. 

CONSTRUCTION.  Cut  out  the  necessary  pieces,  like 
the  one  shown  on  Plate  IV.  Score  on  the  dotted  line  and 
bend  back  lower  rectangle.  Lay  these  pieces  edege  to  edge 
with  about  1-16"  between  them  and  bind  with  passe  partout 
binding.  When  brought  to  form  by  pasting  the  last  joint, 
putbinding  strips  on  the  inside  also. 

Next  paste  the  rectangle  parts  together  at  their  short 
edges  in  the  same  manner,  outside  and  inside.  Also  put  a 
strip  over  the  horizontal  scored  bend  for  appearance. 

The  shade  is  now  ready  for  painting  and  the  applica- 
tion of  the  designs  and  tissue  paper.  The  fringe  is  now 
made  out  of  strips  of  colored  paper  (First  Grade  Materi- 
als) as  shown  on  the  Plate,  a  small  square  of  paper  at  the 
bottom  to  keep  the  knot  of  the  string  from  pulling  through, 
holds  the  tube  of  paper  in  place.  They  are  attached  to  a 
thin  strip  of  cardboard  as  shown  and  pasted  inside  of  the 
lower  edge  of  the  shade. 


68 


6.     LANTERNS. 

(Plate  V.) 

MATERIALS.  Black  mounting  board  10"x20",  one 
per  pupil.  Tissue  paper  to  be  furnished  by  the  children 
for  backing  the  openings. 

DRAWING.  Use  the  gray  side  of  the  black  mounting 
board  for  the  laying  out  of  the  lantern.  The  sides  should 
be  drawn  directly  on  the  mounting  board,  but  the  top  and 
vent  hoods  are  to  be  marked  out  from  patterns  made  of  tag 
board.  On  one  sheet  of  the  black  mounting  board  10"x20" 
is  to  be  laid  out  two  lantern  tops  or  two  sides  for  two  lan- 
terns. The  vent  hoods  will  come  out  of  the  pieces  left.  -~\ 

PATTERNS.  The  Pattern  for  the  top  to  be  one  of  the 
four  triangles  with  51/0"  base  and  4%"  sides.  Cut  out  com- 
pletely the  central  triangle,  the  vent  hole,  of  the  size  as 
shown  in  Plate  V.  The  pattern  for  the  vent  hood  is  formed 
by  using  the  compass  set  to  radii  given  in  (A)  Plate  V. 
(Give  class  drill  in  this  use  of  the  compass.) 

DESIGNS.  These  are  worked  out  in  the  draAving  les- 
sons. A  few  suggestions  are  given  Plate  V.  ( E ) . 

CONSTRUCTION.  The  outer  edges  of  both  sides  and 
top  may  be  cut  with  scissors.  Cut  out  openings  in  sides 
with  point  of  knife  on  the  zinc  sheet.  Cut  out  vent  holes  in 
top  on  the  two  upper  sides  ONLY.  Score  on  dotted  line 
for  folding  in.  Cut  off  the  points  of  small  triangles  as  in 
the  drawing  Plate  V.  This  folded  in  lap,  will  aid  in  plac- 
ing top  in  position  on  sides.  Cut  out  the  four  vent  hoods 
using  pattern  previously  made.  Score  all  folds  lightly 
with  one  stroke  of  knife.  Scoring  with  the  scissors  will  be 
apt  to  roughen  up  the  outer  layer  of  black  paper. 

PASTING.  Bring  together  the  sides  and  fold  in  and 
paste  the  bottom  flaps  at  the  corners.  Be  sure  lantern  is 
square.  Paste  extra  flaps  of  manilla  paper  on  the  inside 
top  edges  of  the  four  sides  as  in  (B)  Plate  V,  and  fold  over 
the  outside.  Bring  top  together,  paste  and  then  place  on 
the  sides.  The  extra  flaps  attached  to  the  sides  are  pasted 
on  the  outside  under  edge  of  the  top.  This  is  easier  than 
pasting  them  inside.  By  placing  the  lantern  on  the  desk 

69 


top  as  shown  at  (C)  these  flaps  can  be  securely  pressed  in 
place  by  running  the  ruler  along  the  flap  as  shown,  taking 
each  side  in  turn.  The  vent  hoods  are  next  pasted  in  posi- 
tion over  the  vent  holes.  Tinted  tissue  paper  is  now  pasted 
within  over  the  side  openings,  but  not  over  the  vent  holes. 

Figure  (D)  shows  how  the  ordinary  electric  shade 
holder  may  be  removed  from  the  socket  and  dropped  over 
the  electric  bulb  protecting  the  lantern  from  the  heat. 

6  a.     COMMUNAL  OR  GROUP  PROBLEM. 

To  make  a  similar  lantern,  with  sides  6"x6"  and  top  of 
four  triangles  8"  base  and  6*4"  sides.  Cut  parts  out  separ- 
ately. Material  to  be  of  heav}7  strawboard.  The  four  sides 
and  the  four  pieces  of  the  top  bound  together  with  passe 
partout.  When  finished  paint  the  outside  with  grey  easy 
dye  or  charcoal  gray  water  color.  Back  the  side  openings 
with  tinted  tissue  paper. 


70 


7.     BOOK  BINDING. 

(Plates  VI.  and  VII.) 

THE  PAD.  This  problem  offers  experience  in  fold- 
ing, tearing,  sewing,  pasting  and  punching;  the  laying 
out  of  a  two  piece  cover  and  making  of  cord  from  crochet 
cotton  for  lacing. 

MATERIALS.  Scratch  or  tinted  folding  paper  for 
filler.  Strawboard,  4"x4"  for  foundation.  Drawing  paper, 
tinted  by  the  pupil  with  water  colors  for  covering.  Other 
materials  may  be  used  for  covering  if  pupil  wishes  to  fur- 
nish them,  such  as  bookbinders'  cloth,  cover  papers,  leath- 
er and  silk.  Crochet  cotton  for  the  cord. 

THE  FILLER.  Fold  and  tear  a  sheet  of  tinted  fold- 
ing paper  T1/4"xl2"  into  4  pieces,  each  measuring  7i^."x3". 
Fold  to  form  a  folio  (Plate  VI.  B)  which  consists  of 
four  pages  (two  leaves)  3%"x3".  Place  4  folios  together, 
forming  a  section  (16  pages  or  8  leaves).  Prepare  3 
more  sections,  four  sections  in  all  will  form  the  pad- 
Number  the  sections  lightly  1,  2  3  and  4.  Mark  on  the 
first  section  the  position  of  the  4  sewing  holes.  Measure 
1/2"  from  each  side  and  divide  the  distance  between  into 
3  nearly  equal  parts.  Hold  sections  together  closely  and 
carry  the  marking  for  the  holes  across  the  4  sections  (Plate 
VI.  C).  Pierce  holes  with  needle  from  the  outside  of 
each  section. 

SEWING.  Take  1st  and- 2nd  sections,  hold  bade  to 
back  (Plate  VI.  D)  with  the  1st  section  toward  worker 
using  needle  and  crochet  cotton.  Stitch  as  shown  by 
numbers,  beginning  at  1.  Tie  ends  of  thread  between  fJ 
and  1.  Cut  leaving  y2"  ends.  Fray  out,  using  needle 
point.  Close  sections  as  in  the  beginning  section  1  on 
section  2.  Place  sections  1  and  2  on  3.  Open  3rd  sec- 
tion back  to  back  against  section  2,  with  section  3  toward 
the  pupil  (Plate  VI.  E).  Stitch  as  before.  Proceed  in 
the  same  way  with  4th  section.  When  closed,  the  book 
will  appear  as  (Plate  VI.  C)  each  section  in  its  proper 
position. 

NOTE.  When  pulling  the  thread  tightly,  always 
draw  it  in  the  direction  you  are  sewing,  otherwise  the 

71 


hole  will  be  torn  out. 

THE  COVER.  Each  pupil  will  need  one  piece  of 
strawboard  4"x4"  and  one  sheet  of  tinted  drawing  paper  6" 
x9".  Measure  off  a  %"  strip  from  the  4"x4"  square  which 
gives  two  pieces,  one  %"x4"  and  the  other  3*4 "x4".  Cut 
the  piece  %"x4"  to  94"x3i4". 

Measure  and  cut  a  piece  of  the  tinted  drawing  paper 
41/4"xG1/8"-  Lay  out  on  the  white  side  of  the  drawing  paper 
as  shown  in  (Plate  VI.  A — V.  Grade)  the  lines  for 
the  hinge. 

PASTING.  (To  insure  neat  work,  have  newspapers, 
cloths  and  smooth  flour  paste  on  hand.)  Spread  paste 
over  the  surface  of  the  drawing  paper.  Lay  the  straw- 
board  pieces  on  the  drawing  paper,  leaving  about  1/2" 
margin  all  around  and  %"  space  between  the  pieces  of 
strawboard.  Fold  over  the  margin  and  turn  and  finish 
corners  (Plate  VI.  H),  hectograph  plate  (b). 

PUNCHING  AND  TYING.  Mark  position  for  holes 
on  the  y^'^V-i"  strawboard,  y2"  from  each  side  (hecto- 
graph plate  C).  Punch  first  through  this  top  piece,  then 
through  the  first  two  sections,  then  the  last  2  sections, 
and  lastly  the  bottom  board.  Make  cord  by  twisting 
crochet  cotton.  Sew  as  illustrated  (hectograph  plate  C), 
and  tie,  making  tassel  ends  by  knotting  and  fraying  with 
a  pin.  Paste  last  sheet  of  filler  to  the  lower  board  for 
lining. 

8.     THE  BOOK. 

Materials.  Cream  Cover  Paper,  Il"x28",  200  sh.  per 
room — for  inside  of  book. 

Strawboard,  S^'xT1/^",  100  per  room — for  book  cover. 

Brown  Cover  Paper,  8  l/3"x5",  light  weight,  150  per 
room,  for  book  covers. 

Book  Binding  Cloth,  green  and  brown,  38"x36",  1 
piece  per  room — for  backing  book. 

Crochet  Cotton,  1  ball  per  room  for  sewing. 

Needles — borrow  from  third  grade. 

THE  FILLER  OR  INSIDE  OF  BOOK.  Each  pupil 
needs  4  sheets  of  cream  Cover  Paper  Il"x28".  Fold  as 

72 


illustrated  (Plate  VI.  A)  and  tear,  using  edge  of  ruler. 
Fold  each  sheet  to  form  folio  (Plate  VI.  B)  which  con- 
sists of  4  pages  5^/2 "x7".  .  Place  4  folios  together,  form- 
ing a  section.  Make  3  more  sections  and  the  four  sec- 
tions will  form  the  book.  Number  the  sections  lightly 

I,  2,  3,  and  4.     Mark  on  the  first  section  the  position  of 
the  sewing  holes — one  inch  fro  mthe  top  arid  1^4   inch 
from   the  bottom.      Divide   the   distance   between   into   3 
nearly  equal  parts.     Hold  the  sections  together  closely 
and  carry  the  marking  for  the  holes  across  the  four  sec- 
tions (Plate  VI.  C).    Pierce  the  holes  with  a  needle. 

SEWING.     Same  as  for  the  Pad. 

REINFORCEMENT  OF  BACK.  Tlie  back  of  the 
filler  of  the  book  should  be  reinforced  by  the  addition  of 
a  2"  strip  of  nianila  paper.  Tear  off  all  but  1"  of  the 
first  and  last  leaves  of  the  book.  Paste  st'.p  around  back 
and  to  these  stubs  (hectograph  plate  D). 

THE  BOOK  COVER.  Each  pupil  will  need  two 
strawboards  5^2 "x7",  two  pieces  of  bro\\n  cover  paper 
8  l/3"x  5",  and  a  piece  of  book  linen  for  the  backing; 
314  "xO1/-}"-  These  backing  strips  should  be  carefully  meas- 
ured and  cut  with  knife  from  the  large  piece  of  book  linen 
supplied. 

The  large  piece  36"x38"  will  cut  44  pieces  SV^xO1/^ 
or  48  pieces  3"x$y2".  Lay  boards  on  desk  in  position  for 
book.  s  Measure  off  1"  from  the  back  on  each  board  and 
draw  line  (Plate  VI.  F). 

Spread  paste  over  cover  paper.  (To  insure  neat  work, 
have  newspapers,  cloths  and  smooth  flour  paste  on  hand. ) 
Lay  boards  on  cover  paper  as  in  (Plate  VI.  G),  which 
will  leave  a  margin  of  cover  paper  about  y2".  Fold  over 
the  margin  and  turn  and  finish  corners  as  in  Plate 
VI.  H).  This  same  process  is  shown  in  Box  Making  Plate 

II.  F. 

BACKING.  Take  strip  of  book  linen  and  lay  out 
on  wrong  side,  as  shown  (Plate  VI.  I).  The  14"  space 
is  the  back  of  book  and  should  be  strengthened  by  a  piece 
of  heavy  manila  paper  3/16"  wide  and  the  length  of  the 
sirawboard  Ji/4".  Paste  this  strip  in  place  as  shown  by 

73 


shaded  portion.  The  3/16"  spaces  either  side  form  the 
hinges. 

Lay  boards  in  place  with  the  long  edges  just  meeting 
the  lines  N.  M.  (Plate  VII.  A).  Spread  paste  all  over 
the  strip  of  linen.  Lay  the  board  on  again.  Turn  over 
and  smooth  out  all  the  wrinkles  in  the  linen,  being  sure 
that  the  edge  of  the  board  sticks  well  to  the  linen.  Use 
a  cloth  for  pressing  so  that  no  moisture  from  fingers  soils 
the  linen.  Do  the  same  with  the  other  side.  Then  paste 
and  turn  over  the  ends  of  the  linen. 

Now  turn  the  whole  over  so  that  the  linen  and  cover 
paper  are  on  top.  Carefully  crease  with  ruler  along  the 
edge  of  board  to  form  a  good  looking  hinge  (Plate  VII. 
B ) .  If  this  point  in  the  process  should  be  reached  at 
the  close  of  a  period,  put  under  a  press  until  the  next 
lesson. 

THE  PASTING  OF  FILLER  TO  COVER.  Lay  filler 
on  cover  in  position  (Plate  VI.  C),  marking  its  place 
lightly  on  top  and  bottom  to  insure  getting  it  in  the  right 
place.  First  spread  paste  on  the  stubs  and  smooth  into 
position  in  cover,  taking  care  that  the  filler  is  pushed  well 
up  into  hinge.  Place  newspaper  under  last  leaf  of  book 
to  protect  other  leaves  when  pasting  ( Plate  VI.  D ) .  Spread 
paste  on  last  leaf,  and,  removing  newspaper,  smooth  into 
position.  Paste  first  sheet  to  cover  in  same  way,  close  the 
book  and  run  the  edge  of  the  ruler  along  the  hinges  to  press 
them  into  good  shape  (Plate  VII.  E).  Place  blotters  be- 
tween filer  and  covers  to  take  up  the  moisture  and  place 
under  press. 

DESIGN.  A  number  of  designs  are  suggested  on 
Plate  VII.,  also  in  Drawing  outline.  The  design  may 
be  transferred  to  the  cover  paper  either  before  or  after 
it  is  pasted.  In  the  former  case  fold  the  cover  paper  over 
the  strawboard  so  that  the  design  may  be  carefully  placed. 
The  lettering  of  the  title,  together  with  the  figure  drawn, 
form  the  cover  design  and  should  be  so  placed  as  to  leave 
greater  space  at  bottom  than  at  top.  There  should  be  a 
close  relation  between  the  colors  used  in  the  book  linen, 
the  cover  paper  and  the  design. 

74 


